Monday, March 15, 2010

#6. February 28, 2010

KAREN: We had a nice visit with some of the family on the skype while they were all at Kimmy’s for Austin’s farewell luncheon today. So I’m feeling a little lonely this afternoon, but it made me realize that I haven’t made any new blog entries for well over a week. We have been truly busy and I’m grateful for it. I don’t have quite so much time to think of home.

We’ve spent a lot of time and effort getting our English class off the ground. The second week, when we went back with the books from the Library and a little more adult help, we actually had a pretty successful class. We divided up the group into four classes: the little kids, who read very little English; the middle school kids, who read fairly well but have a long way to go with comprehension and pronunciation; the high school kids, most of whom read and comprehend quite well; and several adults whose skills run the full gamut but are all very motivated. Besides us, we had help from two elders, and some of the older high school kids helped with the younger elementary kids. We were scheduled to start at 3:30, so we wanted to get there about 3:00 to get everything set up, only to find most of them there already. After a little organized chaos, we got started focusing on the little kids for an hour and it went quite well. The older high school kids did really well teaching alongside us and we were grateful for them. After about an hour and 15 minutes, we invited the younger ones to head home and switched our focus to the older kids. We had about 5 classes going, with each of us guiding the small groups reading stories we’d picked up at the library on several different levels, and everyone seemed to enjoy it. We weren’t quite sure what to do for the adults, but most of them enjoyed taking turns reading out loud from some of those mid-range school books. They liked the stories and with a little help from a dictionary were able to understand all that was read. We feel strongly about helping the adult parents, because we picked up some really great books and programs from the Church School over in Pesega that really encourage using the parents in team teaching situations, so that they can work with their children at home.

Today was our first class using those materials and we were surprised at how the adults really wanted more help with the little mini-grammar lessons we taught before we split up the groups. Fortunately we borrowed 9 copies of the same English grammar book from Pesega and were able to have one for every two or three adults. After sending the other kids off to their reading classes, we taught the adults basic sentence structure, subject and predicate, English sentence word order (which is very backward from Samoan) and then went over several exercises provided in the books that gave them practice in each principle we covered. It was so great to see how hungry they were for a better grasp of English, not only for themselves but for their kids as well; but it was also great to have the tools to help them with. If I had to give an English lesson without these elementary books, I’m not sure what I’d do. I can certainly speak pretty correct English, including the grammar, but had forgotten everything I had ever learned about subjects and predicates, word order, etc. I’m actually relearning quite a bit of it myself. The nice thing about this project for me is that I’m not required to know a lot of Samoan in order to make a contribution. The first month of our mission I felt isolated on the outer fringes because of my poor language skills. Even though this new teaching experience is a challenge, I at least feel it is in the range of possibility for me, considering my slow Samoan. Besides the classes on Sunday, we meet at the church on Wednesday afternoons to help individual high school kids with their English homework, which was our first intention when we got started. Even though we were only supposed to have kids come who needed homework help, there were several younger ones there as well, so one of the mothers took them to another classroom and read them stories so we could have peace and quiet for doing homework. It was so interesting to help with homework, because the kids could read well and work their math problems, but they couldn’t understand what all the words meant in the stories or problems (sort of like me with Samoan). We spent a lot of time with the dictionaries. We won’t be living within the boundaries of that ward when we get moved, but will still keep the class going. When we mentioned to someone in our new ward about the class, they asked if we would start one in their ward. We’ll talk to that bishop this week and maybe get another one started. Now that we know a little of what we’re doing, it doesn’t seem quite so overwhelming.

Speaking of moving to our new apartment, we were supposed to move yesterday (Saturday). They told us earlier in the week that Saturday would probably be good…..but…..we might want to check back on Friday to see if they were on schedule. Okay, we’re back to Samoan time again. When we checked on Friday, it was obvious that Saturday wasn’t going to work because they were still not finished with the tile in the living/dining/kitchen area, but all seemed sure that Monday would be just fine. Yesterday, however, we got a call from them saying that they were tearing up the tile that had been just about finished because they found out they had been using the wrong glue, and wouldn’t be able to get any more until Monday morning. So maybe Tuesday, Wednesday or whatever. We finished our shopping for the new place while we were over in Apia last week, so we have piles of stuff sitting around waiting for the move. I guess another few days of stepping over it won’t be that bad.
Besides the English classes, we’ve been helping with the Missionary Training Classes that are being held here in the Stake. Most are being taught in Samoan, so I don’t get much out of them, but required to practice giving lessons in front of the group, the girls outshine the guys big time. They are much more confident and better prepared. We did recognize that the girls are two years older chronologically, and like most girls around the world, they are more mature. We really found that to be true at the MTC in Provo. There’s quite a big gap between the maturity of a 19-year-old boy we’ve been asked to give some demonstrations teaching the lessons in English. Some of the kids in the class have received calls to English speaking missions, and though most of them speak fair English, the instructor felt they would need extra help on the lessons. John will be teaching the lessons and I will be acting as the investigator, much the same as I did when I was volunteering at the MTC before our mission. The class is pretty good size and almost half of them are young women. When the trainees are (the age when boys can go on a mission) and a 21-year-old girl (the age the girls need to be). A good many of these kids will likely end up somewhere here in Samoa on their missions. The government restricts the number of foreign palagi (white) missionaries to a small percentage and there are no white female missionaries anymore, because of an attack on some American girls a few years ago. These Samoan missionaries are sharp though, and have great confidence and success. In the three zones on this island there are about 30 missionaries, but only about l/3rd of them are Palagis from America, New Zealand and Australia. Several of the Samoan native missionaries are from the States, where their parents have emigrated, but they are counted among the Samoan percentage.
We attended our first baptism this week, and John was asked to be the first speaker. We can’t take any credit for these baptisms at all. The two elders in the picture—Elder Tuioletai on the left and Elder Lavaka on the right—were the elders who taught them and I think they were as excited as the converts were. There was one other convert, a middle-aged gentleman who was rather camera shy, I guess, because he was nowhere around when it was picture-taking time. He’s not really a shy person, though. He’s very outgoing and friendly and the next day, on Sunday after they had all been confirmed in Sacrament meeting, he got up and bore a very powerful testimony about his baptism. Even though we were not part of the conversion process with these four people, we really enjoyed the baptism and what it will mean in the lives of these new members.

We’ve been to a couple of Zone meetings this month, but this past week there was a large 3-zone conference at a branch north of us for all the missionaries on this Island. The Mission President, his wife and two assistants came over from Upolo and it was a wonderful conference, where they had presentations prepared for us on different aspects of successful proselyting, teaching with the Spirit, baptismal preparation, etc. Quite a bit of it was in English, and what wasn’t just seemed to come through to me.
The meetings were in a lovely little branch house beautifully landscaped, situated among the trees, and up the hill about a mile inland from the coast. The chapel was a completely open structure with a roof and no walls, and several classrooms are in more modern structures all around the perimeter.
We were fed by the local people, which means there was too much to eat, but all of it really good. Because we were up in the bush and they had little, if any, refrigeration, we were given ice cream and cookies first, before the ice cream melted, and then the lunch of typical Samoan fare: baked chicken, pisupo (corned beef), Palusami (a delicious dish made of coconut cream and onions wrapped in taro leaves and baked long and slow and then scooped up with a piece of breadfruit or taro, m-m-m), scrambled eggs with ham, and a curried chicken stew. To drink, we each had a cold niu (a green coconut opened at the top and sitting on a cup or Styrofoam plate section to hold it up straight). The honored guests were the oldest of us, President and Sister Haleck and us—The Halecks because they are important and us because we are old--so we had nice plates covered with foil, while the younger missionaries had their lunch in typical Styrofoam boxes (like doggie bags at home).

In any typical Samoan meal, the guests and adults are served first by the teenagers, who also move around and fan your food, refill your cups and pick up your plates or leaves (or Styrofoam boxes in the case of the Zone Conference). The custom is that you seldom eat all your food, and push it away so that it can be picked up and then the leftovers are fed to the teens and then to the small children, who are kind of kept away until it’s all over. Once the food is removed, the teens bring each person a bowl of water and a small towel to clean up dirty hands after eating, because most of the food is eaten with fingers. The final parts of the ritual are the long and flowery speeches, first from a representative of the guests (in our case that day a young, very vocal native Samoan Missionary, probably destined to become a talking chief) giving thanks for the food, for the multitude of hands that prepared it, Heavenly Father who provided it and the enchanting surroundings, among other things, running anywhere from five to ten minutes long. Then all attending talking chiefs (in our case the local branch president or bishop) give more speeches in response to the guest speech, extolling all the virtues of the guests, the surroundings, the cooks, the Heavens, the earth and everything on it, the sea and every thing under it, etc. and etc. and etc. (this may sound like I’m exaggerating, because you know that I don’t understand Samoan very well, but John has translated for me and I’m really not that far off). That could run another 10 to 20 minutes, depending on how many chose to speak, most always just the men. At this meeting there was a final speech from our missionary representative and then the Mission President, who is part German, I believe, and part Native Samoan, and all in accordance with the local customs. I hope I’m not making this sound as if I’m ridiculing their customs, because I am not. These are just such interesting and different customs that I’m not used to and want to share the experience with all of you .
After the Zone conference, the meal and the speeches had ended, there was a typical picture-taking activity. Samoans love to have their pictures taken, as do the elders for that matter, and are willing to stand in the hot sun and be photographed any number of times by any and all in attendance with a camera. I guess we are no different when something special happens in our own families

A Samoan feast is really quite an event. A member missionary fireside we went to a couple of weeks ago, which ran well over two hours just for the fireside part, served as simple refreshments toast and egg sandwiches, crackers, cookies, some little sort of little deep-fried muffin and, hot Samoan Cocoa, which is standard at most meals, no matter the weather. Samoan cocoa is different, but I’m learning to like it, and don’t even mind that it’s hot. It’s made strictly with water, no milk or cream, and has little tiny chunks of cocoa beans floating in it. After the “refreshments” were served, partially eaten and pushed away, they were collected for the teens who were there serving and for the children there with their parents, and then the usual round of speeches began. I think the whole fireside and refreshments and speeches ran over three hours. It was all actually quite enlightening and entertaining.

A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned in one of my blog stories, along with some photos, that most every home has some sort of grave or tomb in the front yard. As John and I were passing one yard on our way to a meeting one day, I noticed a really fancy tomb that I wanted to photograph, but realized I didn’t have the camera with me. I took note of the surroundings so that I could find it again when I was able to take a picture of it. Unfortunately, when we went past it the second time, there was a whole bunch of people working in the front yard and I didn’t want to look like a pesky tourist by taking the picture of their dead ancestor’s tomb with them all standing there.
A week or so later when we were on our way home from snorkeling with Elder and Sister Montgomery, I asked them to slow down by that tomb, because I wanted to get a picture of it. Before I had even finished my request, I noticed that Sister M. had her camera out and the car was slowing down. She had heard about it, and a story to go with it, from someone a few weeks back. The story is that supposedly the tomb belonged to an old gentleman, who had always wanted a nice truck. When his children grew up and moved overseas, they made him a gift of a brand new truck when he was getting pretty old. He was so enthralled with the truck that when he died unexpectedly a few weeks later of a heart attack, the family buried, or entombed, the truck with him. As you look at the right side of the little tomb building which is all decorated, you can see that it is glass enclosed over the grave. The left side, I believe is where the truck is ‘buried’. The Samoans have a great reverence for their ancestors and many of the tombs we’ve seen are all dressed up even more on Sundays.

There are other customs that are related to Sunday. Everyone everywhere is cleaning up their yards Friday and Saturday. On Friday, we usually see all of the weed-eaters going to town on the grass, almost always with men performing that job. By Saturday we see the women and children out with their special Samoan brooms sweeping up the grass into piles to be burned. The smoke from those grass fires is part of the problem with air pollution on Saturday night. The other reason for the smoke is that everyone has their cook-houses cranked up and burning in order to get everything prepared for the big Sunday feast, most of which is slow-roasted in their outside wood-burning ovens. You can start to see the smoky air hovering just above the ground late Saturday, and by Sunday morning the whole area looks like a Los Angeles smog. We noticed it the first time when we were over in Pesega the first week we were in Samoa. Once we moved over to Vaiola, it wasn’t quite so bad because we were up in the brush, with few cook-houses close by. Now that we’re in town again, we have the smoke and especially the smoky smell that kept us both awake last night. They roast amazing meals in those little outdoor cookhouses, but we all pay for it with the smoke and smell.

JOHN: About 2 weeks ago we joined in an after-meeting Sunday dinner in the village of Fusi. Later we taught an English class there. At the end of this dinner, where all the adults sit around on the floor and each one leans against a pole of the house, it is customary for speeches to be given. The men who are chiefs in the village sit along one edge of the room, the others sit along the sides, and the young people who serve the meal sit along the back. Children are not in the building, but rather are playing out behind the building, until all the adults have eaten, and then they eat the leftovers. This seems unfair, but there is always plenty of food for them. I think it also teaches the kids a degree of respect for their elders that may be missing in our culture. The youth of the villages serve the matais (chiefs), and that is the way they prove themselves worthy to some day be a chief themselves. There is a saying in Samoan, o le ala I le pule, le tautua, which means that service is the way to power. Anyway, at the end of the meal all of the talking chiefs take turns making speeches in which they ask the Lord’s blessings on every one present, and they go on and on, and include references to old sayings, proverbs and an occasional joke. It is really entertaining to listen to them. They use words and phrases that only the most knowledgeable people are aware of plus some things all present can understand (except Karen). I thoroughly enjoy this. Then they asked me to say something, which I did, and then I said my wife will now say a few words. Then I informed Karen she was next to speak. She did an admirable job of saying her thanks and how much she loves the country and the church (some in Samoan, and some in English, which I translated for her). Then an old matai asked if there was anything I wanted, and I jokingly said I’d like a fe’e. Everyone laughed. Then, when we met to eat with that man’s family the following Sunday, I opened the pot in front of me, and there was my fe’e. A nicely prepared octopus, cooked in it’s ink. It was delicious. Karen thought so too, though she admitted to them that this was her first. I asked the man how he got it, and he said he speared it with his speargun just out a little ways from his house.

Just a note here about this matai system of local government. This system has survived for centuries, and it is very effective and efficient. Each village has chiefs or matais who govern the affairs of the village. There are high chiefs (alii) and talking chiefs (tulafale). The high chiefs make the final decisions and the talking chiefs do almost all of the talking. Village policies are made and carried out under the rule of these men. They exact punishment and generally maintain order in the villages. It is really amazing how well the system works. You could go all day here without seeing a policeman, because the local leaders keep things under control so well. Young people are very respectful of their parents and older people in particular. To become a matai you must have served the village as a youth very faithfully, and then be elected by the voice of the people. An incompetent matai can also be removed by the people’s voice. Words of respect are used when referring to a matai. A matais house is different from houses of others in the village. There are common words for their head, feet, arms, voice, etc. and even the way they walk, sleep, and think. To use a common word in those cases would be an offense to him. The talking chiefs are phenomenal speakers, putting together speeches using old parables, and legions, and using words that not everyone understands. Because of the way words are formed in this language, they can actually create new words, which makes it very interesting to listen to.
KAREN: I will now add my 2 cents worth to that last story. I did not say the octopus was ‘delicious’. I was willing to eat one bite. The taste wasn’t too bad—very fishy--but the look of it in the pan was awful. I will probably be able to eat it again just to be polite, but I won’t request it like John did.

The story he told about the earlier meal (sort of like a pot-luck dinner at home where every one brings something and shares it) where we all sat around against the posts of the fale, ate most of the meal with our fingers and then listened to all the talking chiefs give their speeches, was enjoyable, except that my poor old hips don’t sit on the ground very well for very long. It is very impolite to sit with your feet out in front of you, so if you can’t sit Samoan style (sort of like what we might call Indian style) with your legs crossed in front of you, you have to find some other graceful (because you are in a skirt) and comfortable (because you’re 71 years old, and even though you have a brand new hip that is doing just great, it doesn’t flex and bend well enough to sit that way. So… I would bend both my legs to one side with my feet behind me a little, and sit that way for a few minutes, then shift to the other side for awhile. I did try to pull my skirt around me a little and sit with my knees sort of bent in a partial Samoan style squat, but that didn’t last long at all. By the time we had finished our meal and washed our hands in the little bowls of water they brought us, I think my shifting around to get comfortable came to someone’s attention and a teenager was sent to bring me a chair. It was a very welcome change I realized, especially since I would be sitting a lot longer through all the speeches. I wish I knew enough of the language to really understand them, but that will come in time I hope. As our ‘pot luck’ contribution we brought a can of pisupo (corned beef) and a bag of chocolate chip cookies. We had purchased a cookie mix at the store, but the combination of an oven that goes no hotter than 300 degrees and because of that, the cookie dough had time to spread out and become really thin, so the edges were really brown. I wasn’t going to take them because I was embarrassed about how they looked, but John said that they don’t really see homemade cookies much and wouldn’t know the difference. We hadn’t known about this large group dinner and had expected to just have dinner with a family, so I only took about a dozen cookies. By the time the cookies got around to the Bishopric and the other talking chiefs, they were all gone, but they were a hit. Several men asked me to give the recipe to their wives, which really made me laugh and made John say “told you so.” The next week I tried making my old faithful sand cookie recipe, in case we were asked to dinner again. They actually turned out pretty well, in spite of the cooler oven, and were a big hit with the family who invited us to the octopus dinner. We’ve decided that cookies will always be our contribution, because I don’t know how to do anything Samoan yet, and cookies are such an American treat. The only problem with my sand cookie recipe is that I am used to making it with my Bosch mixer, which makes the dough more like sand when you blend the butter, flour and sugar. I had only a fork to do it this time, which took forever, but it actually worked okay. I tried to find a pastry blender at some local stores, but no one knew what I was talking about. When I mentioned it to Sister Montgomery this evening, she said that an earlier missionary couple had left one in her apartment, and she would see that I had it when she leaves in about six weeks. Hooray!! In the meantime, I’ll be blending the cookie dough with a fork.

March 2nd: We finally started moving into our new apartment this morning. Once we got the car loaded up the first time in Vaiola and took it down to the house in town, it became apparent that today would just be the beginning of the move. The bed was there in the bedroom and they brought the stove while we were unloading. The privacy curtains for the many windows were not hung yet because even though they had the cord to hang them on, they couldn’t find any hooks to string the cord from. The refrigerator was supposed to be there later in the day. The landlord was working hard trying to fix a leak in the kitchen sink and the shower tile had still not been repaired. This was about 10:30 this morning. We left and went to buy the two propane bottles needed to heat the water and run the stove. After we delivered the bottles, we went back up to Vaiola to pack up the next carload. We were smart enough to leave sufficient clothes and food back at the old place to take care of us overnight in case they weren’t quite ready for us to stay the night. We didn’t bring the food from the fridge, because we weren’t sure the fridge would be there yet. It was there and had been turned on, but they had just finished repairing the tile, which still needed to be grouted, so we couldn’t take a shower until the next day. Also the privacy curtains were not up yet either, so our thoughts of staying back at the old place one more night were right on target. We are pleased with the place though. It is very light and airy and has been done up with light blue and white paint, blue green floor tile, bordered with light blue. When I first saw the tile, I was a little shocked because I thought he had said the tile was a gray-blue. He said it had looked blue in the store, but it certainly was more green than blue. The decorator in me said “piece of cake. We’ll just find some fabric with those colors in it to tie it all together.” I had actually found a piece that I really liked in town, but I didn’t dare buy it until I had seen what colors were in the sofa cushions. The next day he showed me the fabric they’d found for the curtains and they were a large print with both blue and green in it, even though the blues and greens were not quite right. I’m creating a ‘wall’ at one end of the bedroom to divide off a portion of the room to hang wet clothes in. I can’t trust the rain schedule to jive with my missionary and laundry schedule, and I don’t have a laundry room in this house like I did in Vaiola. I had planned to use the print I had found to make that wall/curtain, but after seeing what their print was like, I settled for a very plain kind of royal blue, one of the colors in the print. That takes care of the bedroom. Now, I wonder what the covers are going to be like for the living room furniture, because that same pattern they are using on the bedroom windows will go in the living/kitchen/dining room as well, where there are windows on three sides. I may have some real challenge ahead trying to make it all work, or I’ll just swallow hard and accept that this is Samoa where everyone uses all kinds of patterns and colors together, so we will too. I assume they’ll have the furniture in when we go tomorrow and hope that we can stay when we do, because we will have emptied the old place completely by then. Tune in tomorrow to hear more of the moving saga

This is Friday of the same week and we are finally pretty well moved in. When we came back on Wednesday afternoon to unload our last load—all of the food, the last few clothes and bedding—we figured we were there to stay, whether everything was finished or not. The privacy curtains were not up yet, but they were sitting on the bed, so we tucked them in behind the top piece of louvered glass and closed them in. The landlord had finally found the right hooks on Thursday and came and hung them that afternoon. So we have privacy at night, and sun control early in the morning all along the east side, and in the afternoon along the west side. After having hung a zillion window curtains and drapes over the years as a decorator, I must say this system is really quite ingenious. I’m tempted to take some of the special cord and hooks home with me. It’s not cord really, but a long tiny little spring encased in a plastic coating probably about 3/16th of an inch in diameter. The ends are open so that a tiny little eyelet screw can be screwed inside the spring on each end and hooked over a hook at the top of each side of the window trim. The cord or covered coil is cut a little shorter than the width of the window so that when it is strung through the rod pocket and attached, it has to stretch a little and holds the curtain nice and snug against the top casing. Ingenious and simple and very functional—that’s really good design in my book. I’m sure that information just really made your day, but I was so intrigued by it that I had to get it in our journal. Sorry.

It’s been a week since that last entry—today is March 12th--and I just have to get this finished and posted.
We started our second English class in another ward this week and had another nice big group, mostly school age kids this time, with two adults. They do pretty well. There seem to be more English speakers in this ward among both kids and adults. This is the ward we just moved into and it’s just about ¼ mile from our house. Besides the English classes this week, we taught the Mutual kids how to Waltz on Tuesday night, and have been singing with the ward choir who are preparing to perform in Stake Conference this Sunday. The Samoans are very robust singers and it’s a joy to sing with them. Gratefully, we are singing a hymn in English so it becomes very comfortable for me. All instructions are given in Samoan, but it’s not hard to catch on.

This will be one last entry before I actually post this segment of the blog. Yesterday, Saturday, we went early to the Fusi Wardhouse, where they were holding Stake Conference this weekend. John had an 8:00am priesthood meeting, so I just tagged along and sat in the car and studied and dozed, and then about 9:00 am the buses started arriving bringing members from all of the other wards in the Stake in order to be there for a 10:00 general meeting. A small percentage of families has cars, so they hire buses to transport whole groups of people from all over the south end of the island for a two hour meeting, which includes speeches and wonderful music. I, of course, understood very little of what was said, but the music was provided by two different choruses from the Vaiola School. Both groups, one from the high school and the other from the primary school, sang their songs in English, so it was a special treat for me. Once the conference was over, all the of members gathered around the grounds and just spent lots of time visiting with each other. Most of them only see each other twice a year at the semi-annual conference so it’s a great time for them. After an hour or so of visiting, the buses started arriving and picking up the groups to take them back home again until the next day, which is today, March 14th, Sunday. After we left yesterday, we headed back home to spend the day doing laundry, preparing for Sunday and then another choir rehearsal last night.

This morning, we got up early so that we could arrive at the church for one last rehearsal before we sang in the 9:00 a.m. meeting. I sat with the ladies, all in our white blouses, and John sat with the men, in their white shirts and ties of course. Our song was performed in English, Ere You Left Your Room This Morning, and I really enjoyed joining the other 50-odd singers from our ward in performing that number. The Mission President was in town for the Conference and was speaking, along with his wife, in this session of the conference. A little while before he got up to speak, I noticed him hand a note to a young man who brought it over the John, who was sitting with the men’s section of the choir. I thought that they probably wanted him to come up and bare his testimony as part of the program. When President Haleck got up to speak, the first thing he did was invite John and I up to sit on the stand. I nearly fell off my seat, fearing that he would ask me to talk too. Now, this happens to missionaries quite often, so I have some little notes in my bag where I have jotted down some thoughts in Samoan, for just such an occasion. I realized, however, that the bag was out in the car and I would just have to fend for myself. Fortunately, an earlier speaker, a very recently returned Samoan missionary, who had served in the U.S., had been asked to speak and he could hardly remember his Samoan after preaching in English for two years, so he delivered his speech in English. I figured I’d do the same if I had to. President Haleck introduced his wife, who spoke for a few minutes and then he called us up to stand by him and introduced us to the huge crowd of about 2200 people, and told a little about what our mission was all about. Then he asked John, and John only, to share his testimony and I sat back down with a huge sigh of relief. John’s Samoan is so good that he gave a great speech and had a lot of good feedback about it later. After Conference we had several invitations for lunch, but we had already accepted one at the home of our Bishop, so after a little visiting around the church, we slipped away, had a nice lunch and then went home and had a short nap before we had to turn around and go back to the church for our Sunday afternoon English classes. So it was a long, long day. When we got home, we decided to have pancakes and just as we were sitting down to eat, the power went out. Gratefully, this has happened enough that we had purchased a nice little lantern and were able to have light in no time. The only problem is that the fans shut down too, so the house heated up quite a bit before the lights came back on again. We survived it all just fine and are just about ready to head for bed before we lose our power again. I’m ready to shut this laptop down too and I promise this is the very end of this blog posting.

Love to all from Elder and Sister Krogh

Friday, February 19, 2010

#5 February 11, 2010

It’s probably been about a week since we finished the last entry and most of our days are similar to the ones described in the last blog segment. We continue to go to town and shop and just wander around and introduce ourselves to people and chat for a bit. We quite often find other members of the Church working in different places around the towns and villages. We are always very recognizable because of our missionary attire and our nametags, so we get stopped a lot by members who are used to missionaries. John is always in his white shirt, dark pants and tie, but I am able to wear clothes that are a little less institutional looking. I’ve finally finished making some lighter-weight and more colorful clothes (in moderation, that is) and will probably be sending most of the original wardrobe I brought with me back home pretty soon.

The temperature varies all the way from about 79-81 degrees, day and night, so it’s all very predictable. At night we may need a sheet over us at times, but seldom. It continues to rain constantly, but we’ve realized it’s not such a problem as long as we have our umbrella with us. When we run in the mornings, it actually feels great to get wet, and we often do. The humidity doesn’t seem to plague us quite so much now. It’s just a fact of life in Samoa we’ve learned to deal with. Our clothes, even clean ones, get smelling slightly of mildew, but after finally finding a supply of Febreze over in Apia, we’ve got that problem licked as well. I do more laundry than usual, as you may have noticed from our earlier blogs, but we’re learning when and how to do it and to accept that we will always have wet clothes hanging in our house. We have a separate laundry room here in Vaiola, but won’t have down in Lalomalava, so there’ll be clotheslines strung in the bedroom and living room I expect. There are clotheslines in the yard there, but we’ll be gone so much from home, we won’t be there to watch for rain and bring the clothes in. We’ll have washer and dryer privileges, but they charge extra for the dryer, so we’ll use it sparingly.

As long as we’re talking about laundry again, I might as well get the next installation of “Laundry Tales” out of the way and be done with it. The day after we figured out how to use the machines in the washhouse, a truck drove up to our door and delivered a beautiful brand new washer and dryer. Once they got it unloaded and into the laundry room, they said they’d be back to determine how to vent the dryer. In the mean time, we were free to use the washer whenever we wanted. We noticed a sticker on the lid that cautioned us to use only “high efficiency laundry powder”, which is not what we purchased the first time around. We were warned several times in the instructions to stay away from regular laundry powder because the high suds created problems with rinsing and could damage the machine. When we went into town the next time, we went to every store available and found absolutely no laundry soap anywhere marked ‘high efficiency’. Most merchants had no idea what we were talking about. We finally found one that noted smaller quantities to use for front-loading washers, but didn’t say anything about high efficiency. Since it was getting time to do laundry again, we went ahead and decided to try that one.

We got the washer all hooked up to the water and drainage sink and proceeded to start the first batch of clothes by just putting the soap in, pushing the right buttons and going about our other business. Being a little paranoid about the suds, I checked to find that they were all foamed up and spilling out from under the lid. I got a cup and scooped most of them out, which we had to do a couple more times before it stopped agitating. Once it started to drain, we figured we were home free. (oh sure!!) As we were sitting there at the table quietly studying, we started to hear and feel this horrendous sound from the laundry room. We ran in and found that the vibrations of the spinning had sent the washer walking all over the room. John grabbed hold of it and hung on as he walked/wobbled it back into place and had to hold it down until the spinning stopped. We figured it must just be out of balance, so we grabbed the instructions to find out how to balance it. All it required was a special wrench, which we didn’t own, so he turned the legs by hand as far as he could. While he ran to find the maintenance men who had delivered it, I proceeded to start the washer back up so that I could rinse the clothes, knowing full well that it would probably start vibrating again as soon as the spin cycle kicked in. I hoped John would be back by then with help, but figured I could hold it down as well as he could, if I had to. Well, I found that I could, but my arms got so tired, I had to shut the machine down. Pondering my dilemma, I grabbed a chair from the dining room, climbed up on the washer and plopped down, turned the spin cycle on again and sat there for the next ten minutes riding the machine until it finally finished. What I didn’t realize was that this was a double-rinse cycle, so I let it do it’s thing again.

I grabbed my book and climbed on again for the final spin, which is where John found me when he came back. This was a photo moment, if ever there was one. When the workmen came back with their wrenches, and made some adjustments, they wanted me to start another load so they could see what was going on. After emptying the first load and loading the second, and being cautious to add very little soap, we left the workmen to watch the cycle and they were there ready to catch it as it took off again. They decided that there was definitely something wrong with the machine and they would recommend to their superior that it be sent back. They left us there, with a batch of clean, but soapy, clothes, so I informed John that since I was now an experienced washing machine rider, I’d get my book and take it from there for the two rinse cycles. Once that was done and we had the laundry hung, we figured we’d go back to the washhouse with the last batch of dirty clothes. However, before we left, the ‘superior’ in charge of maintenance came and wanted to check out the washer before he had it sent back. Sooo.... we demonstrated the wash cycle for him, with John helping him hold it down, and then he left saying it would definitely have to go back. Okay, that’s fine, but now we’re left with one last batch of soapy laundry that needed to be rinsed. John volunteered to rinse it in the sink and then wring it out, but I had grown to love the jolly jaunt so much that I just grabbed my book, climbed aboard, and accompanied the ill-fated washer through its last two spin cycles. Yaaahooooo!!! I told you didn’t I, that it gets more and more comical. Who knows what to expect once we start washing our clothes at the hotel, but you know, I’m beginning to think there might be a book in the making here—how about DIRT DISPOSAL FOR DUMMIES or maybe even LAUNDRY LAMENTATIONS OF A LUDICROUS LADY? Does anyone know any publishers who might take a chance on it???

Now, we’re not on this mission just to provide entertainment for the masses of people following this blog. We do have serious business here and it is really starting to pick up finally. We have a zone meeting tomorrow, a missionary training class on Friday and a Fireside on Sunday. Hopefully, after those meetings are out of the way, we’ll have plenty to keep us busy in the missionary vein. John, who has always been such a hard worker and has had all kinds of extra things to keep him busy back home, finds himself a little too idle when he gets to the point that he’s had enough of language and scripture study. He helps me with my duties--shopping, cooking, cleaning, LAUNDRY-- but is still feeling that’s not what he came to Samoa for. I suggested that he needed to start up another little hobby for just such times as these, like whittling, drawing, etc. While he was kibitzing around on the front porch with a bunch of the neighbor kids, and was waiting for me to come out with my little piano, a great idea struck me. He’d been wanting me to teach him how to play the piano for years, but would always get bored with it when I tried, like he did as a kid. Now he can’t run off to the woodshop or his garden when he needs something to do. Also, I need someone to experiment on with the Basic Piano Course that was added to my duties as a missionary.
So for the past two nights, I’ve started him on the simple lessons in that course. He’s practically teaching himself, so I don’t have to do much. He doesn’t last too long at it, but he is moving through the lessons and learning the technique and will actually be able to assist me in teaching it when he gets to a certain point in the course. Along with teaching simple piano/keyboard lessons, I’ll be teaching some conducting classes as well. Music always plays such an important part in all our worship services and auxiliary meetings. The Bishops all like to have up-and-coming accompanists and conductors in their wards to assist in the music callings in each auxiliary. So that’s another part of our member support responsibilities.

Another part of my duties that John has taken on is helping with the cooking. I joked before we came to Samoa that since the men in Samoa do all the cooking, I would certainly go along with that and turn it all over to John. He has helped me a lot with meal preparation and cleanup since he has plenty of time to do it. We have been getting so many gifts of pineapple, papaya and bananas that we’ve had to discreetly unload some of it off onto the elders and they are usually happy to get it. The papayas and pineapples keep pretty well in the fridge, but once a banana is ripe, it needs to be eaten or turned into banana bread. The only baking pan we had in the house was one we picked up when we were last in Apia—a nice cake pan/baking pan/cookie sheet. We got a banana bread recipe from Kimmy when we were skyping with them and John figured he was ready to make banana bread. We realized that we had no eggs, so we bought a dozen very small eggs, for about 6.50 Samoan Tala (ST), which is about $3.00 (ouch!). We don’t plan to do too much with eggs at that price. After dinner one evening last week, John decided to make banana bread. He had all of the dry ingredients together in one bowl and had cracked the first egg into the other bowl with the oil. Somehow as he was reaching for the second egg, he knocked the whole carton of eggs on the floor. We lost about 8 of them in that accident.
He felt so bad, not only because of the mess, but the cost of the eggs. We cleaned it all up and finished getting the batter in the pan, sort of a small cookie sheet with high sides, and got it in the oven. We followed the recipe in terms of oven temperature and time, but realized after that we should have cooked it either a shorter time or a cooler temperature, because it looked pretty well done when we got it out of the oven. It did taste good though and we’ve requested some bread-baking pans in our next Care package from home. We learned a lesson or two on how to go about our next attempt at baking--alter the time and temp and keep the eggs away from the edge of the table.

In the course of an average day we seem to spend a lot of time in the car. That can be pretty nice actually, in light of the constant heat and humidity. This little car is very well air-conditioned and a nice reprieve in the middle of the day. We see a lot of very interesting things as we drive around. John has been amazed at all of the newer homes that have replaced the typical old very picturesque Samoan fales (house) that he was so used to when he was here over fifty years ago. The thatched roof is pretty much a thing of the past, even on the typical fale, so nearly 90% of all buildings have corrugated metal roofing on them. To find someone actually living in one of the old style fales, instead of relegating them to cook house or animal abode, is quite unusual. We had to stop and snap a picture of this fale, with thatched roof intact, and still being lived in.
Note the second little building next to the bigger one. That is the cook house. Most Samoan homes, including the more modern ones, have a little building outside of the regular house to do their cooking and especially the baking, because it keeps the mess and heat away from the family.
The more modern version of Samoan homes may still have the open walls, but are often painted in very bright colors and have multi-colored print fabric shades to pull down when it rains or they want privacy at night. Notice the large cheerfully painted truck tires decorating the front yard in the third picture (a very common sight in Samoa). Their yards are all very well kept up and have colorful native foliage growing everywhere. There are very few lawnmowers in Samoa. All those neatly manicured lawns are kept up with a weed eater. I expect there could even be some that are still ‘mowed’ by a bunch of guys with machetes, the old fashioned way it was done when John was here as a young missionary. (This is 2 days later—today we actually saw a little old lady doing that very thing—cutting her grass with a machete almost as big as she was) The grass is also weed-eaten (is that a word?) about 6 ft. wide all along both sides of the highways where there are no homes at all. I thought it was just for looks, but John said that the way things grow here, the lush green vines would be encroaching on the pavement in no time, if they let them go. It makes sense to me, but it still looks really nice.

Many of the homes, whether lavish or humble, have a tomb or several graves right in the front yard. There are few ,if any, cemeteries. Having family buried in the front yard is their way of making claim to the property, I understand. This one is of above average size and decoration, but there are many covered with marble, buried in bouquets of fake flowers, or housed inside a very elaborate little glassed-in building. I’ll probably include some shots of others later in another blog.

There are also quite a few concrete block homes, with louvered windows which are almost always opened, even when it rains. That’s the type of house we live in here and I really like the control the louvers give us with the heat, air and rain. Almost every house, and church or school for that matter, has a large open building right next to or even attached to their homes like a covered patio, which sort of acts as a gathering room for large groups, and also doubles as living space, outdoor sleeping space and laundry-hanging space when it rains. I’ve wished for a building like that next to my house, so I don’t have to hang the clothes all over inside the house.

Speaking of homes, we paid a visit to our new little future home today and found a great deal of progress had been made. The front door and windows are in, the painting is almost finished inside and outside, and the cabinets need only to be varnished and the tile put down on the floor. It looks like we might be able to move in the first of next week.
While we were there, one of the workers’ had his son or grandson with him, an adorable little boy about 2 yrs old, I’d guess. The little one was very nervous and sober as we talked to him, especially when John placed his glasses on the boy’s nose. Just as I pulled my camera out to snap his picture, he spied it and let loose with this wonderful smile for the camera. He’s obviously had his picture taken before.
This load of kids in the back of an open pickup is another common sight we see. Truckloads of workers with their tools and machetes, families with kids of all ages, or teenagers in School uniforms are always on the road. Obviously there are no seat-belt laws or if there are, nobody pays attention to them. I mentioned earlier about not seeing a group of guys cutting the lawn with machetes. What we do see on lonely country plantation roads are groups of men, or a single man or boy here or there, walking along holding their machetes. I’ve gotten used to it now, though it was a little unsettling at first; but I’d bet that in another setting somewhere in the USA, people would be terrified by them, not to mention laws against them being carried around so freely. These are such peace-loving people, that there are very few policemen around, accept in the busiest areas in the Capitol, or here around the wharf where there are a lot of people coming and going.

KAREN – February 16th – (five days later) We’ve had a more eventful week this time around. We did have a zone meeting where it was suggested that the missionaries could be a big help to the kids in the wards, by offering to assist them with their homework. All the children in Samoa are learning English and it is quite difficult for them. Apparently the government schools don’t give them enough English for them to pass their exams and get into better schools. The parents are so anxious for their children to succeed in English, because that’s where their futures will be found. After talking to the Bishop, it was decided that we would hold our first “homework assistance session” on Sunday afternoon at 3:30. It was announced twice in our church meetings earlier in the day and we expected to have a few kids, mostly teenagers, that we would be helping with their homework. Well, about 50 kids from about ages 5 to 17 showed up, plus some of their parents. Only a few of the older ones had homework with them. The others all just wanted to get better in English. The first 20 minutes were very confusing, trying to come up with some way to deal with all the different levels. Fortunately, we had two Elders there to help us. It was decided to split the group up and send the younger ones, some of whom could hardly read any English, out to another classroom with the missionaries. The poor elders also thought they would just be helping with a little homework, so as they left with the young kids, probably about 25 of them, they gave a us look that said “HELP!!!” I left John to fend for himself with the older kids for a while and helped herd the other children into another classroom and suggested the Elders start with the English alphabet, help them to recognize the letters and how they sounded, and maybe even make some words out of them. I left them and went back in to where John was trying to zero in on some sort of class discussion with the teenagers. They talked about the difference between Samoan pronunciation vs. English, and also had some of the kids with homework bring it up and we’d try to make a lesson out of it. We were still in over our heads, so I took another of bunch of Jr. High-age girls to another classroom and started to quiz them on what some of their biggest challenges were in school. The first room we went into was right next to the one that the elders had the younger ones in. The elders were doing great making games out of the alphabet, but the noise level was just like a playground at recess. With my bad ears and the soft spoken young girls, I couldn’t make sense out of anything they said. We moved to another room clear across the courtyard from the noise and did much better. In a more quiet setting, I resumed asking each one about their most challenging problem. They brought up things like, pronunciation, speech writing and delivering, spelling, etc. I was going by the seat of my pants here, so I asked each one of them to write a short speech, in English, one half page, telling us about themselves—who they are, their families, what they like to do--and if there were Samoan words that they didn’t know the English word for, to just leave a blank space and make a note of the Samoan word down below. I would also write a speech in Samoan about me and my life and we would all share it next week in front of each other. Once they all understood the assignment, we talked about another possible weekday class later in the week and promptly adjourned. I told the elders to go ahead and close down and went in to join John, where we announced that now we knew what we were up against, we would come better prepared next week. We’ll see how many show up next time.

We’ve been on the phone all day for a couple of days since Sunday talking to people at the different church schools to see if there are some books and lesson plans we could use to make the classes more meaningful for the kids. We’ll be going over to Apia next week to pick up some materials, but in the meantime, we went to the local library, where the librarian was most anxious to help us come up with some books to use until we could get the help we needed from the schools. We’ve created a new schedule in order to split up the kids and spread them a little thinner. We’re going to ask the bishop to recommend some Ward Members who speak good English to help us as well. Say a prayer for us. We really need it.

This experience makes me think of something that happed over in Pesega before we came to Savai’i. One of the young elders told us about a quote from a visiting general authority who was giving them some counsel during a time of discouragement. The quote said “There is no Growth in the Comfort Zone and there is no Comfort in the Growth Zone”. Those words hit home so totally with me that I had to go home and print it up (by hand with colored markers), frame it, and hang it on the wall where I could see it every day. I am definitely out of my ‘comfort zone’ and hopefully there is an enormous amount of ‘growth’ going on right now. It’s been made very clear to us that helping families bolster up their English is one of the best kinds of member support we can offer them, but how we do it will be a tremendous growth experience for us.

JOHN: One morning last week I had the feeling that we needed to go down to one of the villages on the coast and visit the local minister. The village is called Sapapali’i, and has a bunch of history associated with it. It was here that the first Christian missionary, John Williams, arrived in Samoa in 1830, and the church set up became the LMS (London Missionary Society) church of Samoa. It continues this day to be the predominant church in the country. They are a protestant church patterned after The Church of England. The actual site of the landing is marked by a big monument, and right by it is this big, beautiful church. It may well be the biggest and most important LMS church in Samoa--certainly it is on this island. The other island, Upolu, is more populated, but because John Williams landed here it has special status over the other churches. The village was named to commemorate William‘s arrival there. When his ship’s sails broke the horizon, the white sails seemed to the Samoans to be like an explosion in the sky. Explosion is “pa pa”, and chief (or lord) is “ali’i”. The past tense is “sa”, hence the word Sa papa ali’i is contracted to “Sapapali’i”. The minister of this church is undoubtedly carefully selected, and holds a position of great respect. We met him, Esera (Ezra), and his wife Tamara and began what is proving to be a close, mutual friendship. They are most gracious, and eager to visit with us. They are both native Samoans, but speak good English, and look forward to our visits to engage in good, friendly conversation. I told him on our first visit that I had been listening to the local radio to help me get an ear for the spoken language, and that some of the best spoken word came from ministers’ sermons. I asked if he would allow us to attend his church so I could hear his sermons in Samoan. He said we were very welcome to come, and so the following Sunday we attended our first LMS Church meeting in his beautiful chapel. It was very impressive and the music was wonderful, with the audience doing all of it with full voices and wonderful harmony. He even spoke kindly of us from the pulpit, pronounced a blessing on our work, and asked his congregation to be accepting of us--not at all like the early days of our church when we were persecuted severely by the other churches of Samoa. He even announced that I would be giving a sermon at some point in the future. This story will be interesting to follow in days to come.

KAREN: I’ll just fill in a few little blanks here about our visit to the LMS church. (Hmmm, interesting how close that comes to LDS Church). Actually, we were able to locate that minister because we ran into a young American girl from Texas named Emily who was walking by the Church earlier in the week. There are so few Americans on the island, that we seem to naturally migrate toward each other. She is in Samoa as a member of the Peace Corps and happens to be staying with our minister friend while she volunteers at an elementary (called primary) school in that village. She is struggling with Samoan like I am and we had a lovely visit with her. She told us where to find the minister’s home and hoped to meet with us again sometime to swap stories and languages. Before walking up to the minister’s home, I was very nervous about showing up there unannounced. They were so very cordial when we arrived and we had a wonderful visit and an invitation to attend their services on the following Sunday.
As we were driving up to the church on that beautiful Sabbath morning, right in front of us in the driveway was a walking mass of church goers all dressed in their Sunday best white clothes. That is apparently a time-honored custom for many of the other Christian churches here in Samoa. The men had white sport coats on (despite the heat) and most of the women had big white hats. They all looked so beautiful. John was right about the music. They had two formal choirs, each with their own organ and organist, both of whom also seemed to be the choir director. Singing is a great tradition for Samoans, no matter what church they’re in. They grow up singing at the family devotionals they have every night in their own homes. Our Samoan tutor told us that most of them have relative pitch and hear harmony naturally. As a lifelong choir director, what I would have given for a bunch of them in my choirs along the way in my lifetime. (no offense intended for those few faithful and talented members of the Wallsburg Ward choir that might be listening in.)

After the service, the minister and his wife asked us for lunch, but we had to rush off to our own church meetings where we had obligations. We made plans to do that on another Sunday.

The LMS church building is one of the prettiest churches of several along that strip of road. As you can see, it is beautifully kept up and if you notice off to the left is their covered open “cultural hall” where they have socials and probably even services sometimes when it’s really hot in the building. I hope to get some pictures of the inside of the church, but didn’t feel it was appropriate to do so on a Sunday during church. It has amazing intricate woodworking on the ceiling and colorful stained glass windows. It was a real treat to be there that day.
What with Samoa being a predominantly Christian nation, there are all kinds and sizes of churches everywhere. The first two pictures are of other churches along the same route as the LMS church. Note the luxurious home to the left of the blue and white one with the red roof, and especially note the pink and white tomb in the front yard. The second one was looking a little dilapidated when we drove past it the first few times, but today we noticed painters were freshening it up. When they noticed me taking the picture of the church, they decided to ham it up for me to take their picture as well. Samoans are also a very fun-loving people with a great sense of humor.
These three pictures are of a typical LDS wardhouse, of which there are a surprising number all over the Samoan islands. There is a charming outdoor baptistry in the courtyard, and in the rear their version of a cultural hall, including the open covered pavilion, restrooms and the volleyball and basketball courts (which double as a parking lot on Sundays).
JOHN: Yesterday we went for a walk along the beach road , and met a young man who had come to Savaii for his father’s funeral. His father had committed suicide as a result of the depression he felt after losing the sight in his one good eye. He said his dad was a good member of the church. He had gone to see a doctor for treatment of his good eye, and the doctor did something wrong, resulting in blindness in both eyes. There is a strong practice here of alternative medicine, actually it is the native medicine that has existed for centuries. Some claim that it works, but others don’t agree. They use a lot of native potions, massage, etc. I don’t know for sure, but I’d bet he was treated by a local practitioner and not a real doctor. He apparently stabbed himself in the temple with scissors to kill himself. We did have a good walk and talk with the son though. He wanted to give a tour of the village, and we walked for about an hour with him, talking both English and Samoan. We will probably get to know him more as time goes on because his mom is the Relief Society president in the ward there, and I think she is also the leader of the village women’s committee.

I had a hard time sleeping the other night. I knew my good friend, Gary Totland, was in serious trouble in an intensive care unit back in Utah. We learned the next day that he had died about the same time I was having my attack of insomnia. I thought throughout the night that he was one of my few remaining close friends. He was the best man at my wedding, and we did many things, especially sports together over the early years of our lives. He was a great one who could make everyone happy with his wit and genuine friendliness. I’ll have to wait till I am on the other side to renew that friendship.

KAREN: We are truly saddened by Gary’s unexpected death and it makes us feel much older as we realize that there are fewer and fewer friends and relatives our age. I know this must be a great shock for his wife and family, but also know that they, as we, will find comfort over time in the Savior’s gospel and the knowledge that death need not separate families permanently. Thank Heaven for that knowledge and the peace it gives us in times of grief and trial. Life continues to go on in Utah, with deaths, family birthdays, weddings, reunions, etc. and I’m sure we’ll have a lot more news from home to keep up with as we serve out here in the middle of the ocean. Hopefully, most all of the news will be happier than this last bit of news about Gary. So…keep the news coming, we love hearing from you.
This final picture is of downtown Salelologo, probably the largest village on Savai’i and near the wharf where all traffic comes and goes on and off the island. The buildings all around the gas station are stores, and note that John is sitting in our car as a woman pumps his gas. No one pumps their own gas here.

Well, thanks for suffering through our travelogue. As our mission progresses and we find ourselves much busier (we hope), I expect the blog will dwindle down to a trickle. It’s been a great time filler for me, like a good friend to talk to I might add, and will create great memories for us as we view it after our mission.

Love to all from The Kroghs

PS: we got our malfunctioning washing machine back today and it worked like a charm, in case you were sitting on the edge of your seats wondering about it.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

#4 January 31, 2010

JOHN: We travelled from Savai’i back over to Upolu yesterday a.m. on the ferry without any problems (seasickness). Saw flying fish and dolphins along the way. Shopped in Apia after lunch and bought more supplies. In the evening, we attended a huge meeting with all saints (church members) with Samoan songs and dances performed by young people from each stake on Upolu. Apostle Cook, Presiding Bishop Burton, area president and area seventy and all their wives were guests. Great program, but hot and very humid. Karen almost melted. Today we went early and bought fish at fish market (red snapper, albacore, and tuna). Big fish there, and many kinds.

Went to the Temple in the morning to do an endowment session (special service only done in temples, where members can commit to living the gospel of Jesus Christ and in turn, great blessings are promised to those who keep covenants, and includes baptisms and endowments by proxy for deceased ancestors who died without the opportunity to hear the gospel and partake of those saving ordinances). The endowment session was full and so we went into a sealing session, where members are sealed by priesthood authority to family for time and eternity, including husband to wife and children to parents. Again, already-endowed members stand in as proxy for those who have died. Extremely moving and spiritual experience! It was conducted by a Samoan priesthood worker, who taught many great truths about the eternal nature of the family.

Later in day went to visit Fotu Aiono, a man who was a missionary over 50 years ago when I was here as a young man. His huge garden contained many wonderful plants (pineapple, papaya, taro, etc.) plus beautiful flowering plants mixed in with coconut palms, bamboo, flowering trees, etc.). Looked like a garden of Eden. Had lunch in his new home, and then came back to Apia for a meeting with all Samoan missionaries and above-mentioned general authorities. Great spirit felt by all. Great testimonies borne by apostle and presiding bishop. Lunch later with group of senior missionary couples, included many things we love to eat but don’t have very often in this country (potato salad, ice cream, etc.). Evening meeting with all saints in Samoa (some heard it in their villages on other parts of this island and on other islands by broadcast). Again a great meeting.

KAREN: As John mentioned, we took the ferry back over to Upolo for a special church conference with visiting General Authorities from Salt Lake, who are travelling all over the South Pacific visiting the missions and giving support and encouragement to the missionaries and members. The ferry ride turned out to be okay. I had been dreading the ride on this small ferry (We had taken the large ferry over on our first trip, which is a smoother ride.) The last time we made this trip 5 years ago on this same small ferry, I had one of the most miserable experiences of my life. We got stuck in the car during a storm with the ferry rocking up and down and no way to get out the doors to go up to the deck for some air. I could open the door a small crack on my side with just enough space to lose my lunch (a couple of times) onto the floor of the boat. On John’s side, his door wouldn’t open, so he had to roll down the window and throw up all over the side of a large SUV parked about 6 inches away. There were 4 of us in the small compact car, right up against a wall on one side, the SUV on the other, and I became very claustrophobic, as well as sick. The trip takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, but sitting there in despair it felt like three hours. Yesterday, I would have chosen to take the later ferry, the large one, but the other couple we went with felt we had to leave early in order to get all our shopping done. We don’t get to the big city very often so we take full advantage of the better shopping while we’re here.

Before we got on the ferry, Sister Montgomery and I got out of the car and went into a small lounge toward the center of the ferry where less movement is felt. I had taken my ginger pills over an hour earlier, the locally recommended remedy for seasickness, and found a nice comfortable seat in the lounge to try to close my eyes and possibly fall asleep in order to weather the storm. It all worked like a charm. I dozed off right away and woke up about 45 minutes into the trip feeling just fine. I was able to sit up, jot some notes into my ‘pre-blog’ notebook, and check over my shopping list before we came close to shore again. When we went back out to where the car was parked right along the rail, we found John and Elder Montgomery raving about the sight-seeing tour they’d had watching the school of dolphins that were swimming and leaping alongside the ferry together with the flying fish. Apparently, we had missed a real show. I felt bad about Sis. M. missing out just to keep me company, but she said she had seen ‘that show’ several times and I would be able to also over the next couple of years. I felt a huge relief, knowing I could make this trip back-and-forth between islands without a repeat of my earlier journey of misery. I think I can really put that memory behind me now.

Once we landed on Upolo, we hit the ground running. We went straight in to the Mission Office, which was a hubbub of activity. It was swarming with young elders who had come in from all over the islands for the conference, some of whom we had made acquaintance with back at the MTC in Provo. We also met up with the other new Senior couple who we had trained with in the MTC, a dynamo of a team who would be responsible for the medical health of all missionaries. They were from Canada, but originally from England and had every earmark and accent of a true Brit. They had to stay at the MTC a week longer than we did for extra medical training, and had landed in Upolo after we had left for Savai’i. It was so good to see them again. I wish there was time and space here to tell you their history, but suffice it to say it was very colorful. After clearing a up a bunch of paperwork, a brief meeting with President Haleck, and renewing acquaintances with other Senior couples we had met during our first week on Upolo, we set out for a shopping trip. It seemed much hotter in Upolo, but it was a truly sunny day, which we hadn’t experienced for awhile, and we were constantly on the move. We made our trek around to several stores to locate different food items, not available on Savai’i, and for several household items we would need to set up our new apartment. The one big item we needed was a microwave. What with the constant heat, using a stove and oven can really steam up an apartment. We were appalled at what we had to pay for one, almost $500 for the cheapest one we could find. We decided it was worth it to have access to the quick and cooler cooking method. We got a white one, but the stainless steel model was almost $1000.

One of the purchases I made in the States before we came was a nifty little 5-pound electric sewing machine to have on hand for mending, etc. I can’t seem to live my life normally without a sewing machine close at hand. I’d had such a dilemma trying to shop for the right kinds of clothes for the heat and humidity and still stay within the guidelines of conservative missionary attire. I’d had such mixed messages from my missionary guide book and ex-Samoan missionaries, that I just packed a bare minimum of clothes, and figured I’d just whip up the proper wardrobe once I got in Samoa. When I first got to the Mission office, I discovered all the lady missionaries were dressed in these wonderful colorful Samoan prints of light-weight cotton, and sandles with no hose. I knew that sewing machine would really come in handy right away. I shopped for fabrics and set myself up early on to make some acceptable Samoan missionary clothes. I’m sure you’re aware that the electrical power source in other countries is different than the US, so we have to use special plug adaptors, and even transformers, in order to use American appliances, such as curling irons, blow dryers and sewing machines. I knew that, but when I hooked up my straightening iron the first time, using only an adaptor, it blew a fuse and I assumed it had ruined the iron. Gratefully, the fuse switch just flipped off. My naturally wavy hair kinks so tight with the Samoan humidity that I look like a little old lady straight out of the beauty parlor with a new perm. I can straighten my bangs and sides with the iron, but it doesn’t last long. Oh well, I guess I am a little old lady, or big old lady in my case. On the day I set up the sewing machine for the first time, I carefully added the converter plug and proceeded to plug it into an electrical strip instead of the transformer. This time it didn’t just blow a fuse; it completely burned out the motor. I felt more stupid than upset. I had only paid $39.00 for the little machine at a half-price sale, so I figured I’d just find a little one here in Samoa that worked with the local current, and donate it to the mission when I went home. What I didn’t anticipate was that there are virtually no home sewing machines for sale in all of Samoa. I found one that had to be hand-cranked and two old foot-treadle machines. I was just totally perplexed. I’ve since discovered that the only ones who sew in Samoa are tailors and dressmakers and most of them use commercial machines. So, I found a place in town that would fix my little machine, but they’d have to order a new motor from New Zealand and they suggested we replace it with one that worked with Samoan current. I said okay, and don’t have a clue what I’ll have to pay for the new motor and labor, but I’ll bet anything it will be a whole lot more than the $39.00 I paid for it in the first place. When I expressed my chagrin to the clerk at having to wait so long for the machine to be repaired, and that I needed it to get the proper clothes made, she kindly offered me the use of her little electric Singer machine until mine was fixed. When I protested that it was too much to ask, she would not take ‘no’ for an answer. So I am now using her machine for as long as I need it. That is just the Samoan way. Our Samoan tutor cautioned us about complimenting people about things they were using or wearing, because they would end up giving it to you as a gift. Well, this sewing machine was only a loan, but it was like a gift to me. While we were back in Upolo, I stopped in the shop to find out how soon I could expect my own machine back and she said it would be at least a couple of weeks and I was not to worry about it. She didn’t need it back for quite a while. That was not unusual Samoan behavior, I am told. So I happily purchased some more fabric from her, very inexpensive in Samoa by the way, and we went about the business of finishing our shopping.

For lunch in town that day, the Montgomerys took us to a wonderful little restaurant, tucked back in an alley behind the stores, where we had a really wonderful hamburger, with fries and all the fixins and more. Besides the usual lettuce, tomato, pickle, Mayo, etc., it had a fried egg and a slice of pineapple on it. We could hardly get our mouth around it, but we managed with the help of a big napkin.

After we had finished lunch and shopping, we hurried back to the Church College where a very special show was performed for the visiting Church authorities, the local members and all of us missionaries. The show was great, but it was so hot and sticky in that big hall, I thought I was going to pass out. When Samoans start singing and dancing, they just don’t stop. We enjoyed it a lot, but were ready to head back to our rooms and go to bed. To bed YES, but sleep NO.

We stayed in a very nice guest house that doesn’t get used very often, or fumigated often enough, so we shared the place with several lizards, geckos and a couple of the biggest cockroaches I had ever seen, probably over two inches long. Needless to say, I stayed awake a good part of the night, tossing with the heat and humidity, and worrying about which critter would end up in bed with me. We got up early the next morning in order to go to an early session at the Temple. I kept having to go back to the house because I’d forget different things, and that made us a little late. We were picking up Elder and Sister M. on the way, and I felt really bad when we got to the Temple and found out the session was too full. We were going to have to wait for a later session, which would make us late for a lunch date to visit the plantation of one of John’s old Samoan friends. While we were deciding what to do, a temple worker came out and invited us into a sealing session instead. I was so relieved, but still embarrassed that I was responsible for throwing our time schedule off. Once we went back in, changed into our white temple clothes, and were seated in the sealing room, I started to become a little more calm. As the sealings proceeded, I began to feel the sacred spirit of the Temple and more particularly the significance of this most wonderful of all the ordinances we have in the Church of Jesus Christ. Realizing that these people, whose names we were vicariously acting as proxies for and who had died over a century ago, had been waiting as spirits for heaven knows how long to be restored to each other as a family unit on the other side of the veil. You could almost feel their presence in the room. Being there, in that sealing room, or any sealing room in any temple in the world, is the ultimate goal of all faithful Latter-day-saints. As missionaries, our total focus is on bringing as many living souls as possible, whether they be new members or inactive members, to this point in their spiritual journey in preparation for glorious blessings in this life and the life hereafter. I was humbled, as I’ve never been in my life, by the magnitude of our responsibility to these good people, in spite of whatever hard work, discomfort or homesickness we are faced with. Aside from raising our own eternal family and teaching them about the Savior, nothing we will ever do in our lives could be more important.

After going through several tissues during the session, I felt drained, but uplifted. Our being late for the regular session and ending up in the sealing room, was exactly what I needed that day. I knew we were exactly where we were supposed to be, doing what we were supposed to do at this stage of our life. I felt wonderful. The euphoria of the experience lasted on through the weekend and I was bolstered for the work and the trials ahead.

Once we landed back on Savai’i, and on up to Vaiola, we were sort of back to normal (for us on Savai’i anyway). Early morning walk/run down the beautifully manicured entrance road to the School (see picture below), shower, breakfast, scriptures, language study, to town to find some other much-needed item that can’t be found, shopping for groceries (practically daily because we have such a tiny fridge), to the bank ATM for cash (Samoa is pretty much a cash-only place), visiting around with local people at the stores, bank, internet cafĂ© (to download and send off our emails), and the open market.

A trek to the open market is really something. The building is a very modern, open, two-story sort of mall, like a bazaar, with open stalls on the first floor (see the picture and notice the woman in the lower left corner taking a nap at her stall during a lull in business. Many of the merchants have a bed or lounge by their stall, or a kid or two asleep on the table). The picture of the men sitting on benches around a table is a place where only men can come to buy and drink Kava, (a not quite alcoholic beverage) and get involved in a checker game, either to play or watch, or just to visit. The second floor is made up of dozens of small shops selling just about everything (except what you’re looking for). Like any self-respecting mall, they have their ‘food court’, where some very questionable foods (for me anyway) are available for all.



On our way back home, we usually stop by the apartment (where we will supposedly be moving soon) to check on the progress of the construction of our new home. (the photo says it all)

Progress???

Once we’re back home and John has cooked up a great (really) red snapper (a fish market purchase) for dinner, we sit out on the front porch, where most evenings the neighborhood kids will congregate for a visit. They are all children of the teachers and have wonderful Samoan names, like Brandon, Valentine, Norman, Cherry, Nedra, Angel, Rose, Joseph, Fraser etc. Actually, most have Samoan names too and the fine young four-year-old gentleman front-and-center in the photo is called Sefulu (meaning Number 10) because he is the tenth child in that family. They are all very sharp kids and speak quite good English (which is required here at this school). They love looking at the pictures of our family in our 50th Wedding Anniversary album and trying to identify which baby grows up to be which teenager or adult. One day I brought out my little roll-up piano (a rubber keyboard that wraps around a little box that houses the speakers and lays out flat when you unroll it). It’s about three octaves long but the keys are standard size. When I told the kids I was going in the house to bring out my piano, they were really puzzled, particularly when I came back with a little bag about 7” x 8” x 3”. I played a couple of nursery rhymes and primary songs on it, and they all sang along beautifully, and then they all wanted to play it. So we set it on a very tall book to make it more stable and each child took a turn playing the notes as I pointed to them from the opposite side of the keyboard. Today we picked up a board at the lumber yard so that we can lay the whole piano out flat and make it easier to play. I expect there’ll be music from our porch for many nights before we move, a hopefully so when we come back to visit. Vaiola is only about 20 minutes from Lalomalava where are new apartment will be located.

One day last week, while we were shopping at a local grocery story, we ran into the owner of the hotel where our new apartment will be and informed him that we’d decided to go to his hotel restaurant for dinner. He is the chef as well as the owner. He told us to come about 7:00 p.m. We had wanted to come earlier while we were still in town, but we realized later why coming a little later was a really good idea. We killed some more time in town and showed up for dinner about 7:00. There were some very interesting things on the menu (most apparently quite edible by my standards) and the prices weren’t bad at all. We selected two items and while waiting for the food to be prepared we enjoyed the lovely ambiance of the restaurant. It is situated right at water’s edge and the whole wall that faces the ocean is open. The waves don’t break right near the shore at this point on the island because the reef is quite a bit further out and they break over the reef. The water inside the reef is very calm and peaceful. We could hear it just gently lapping the rocks like you might hear along the edge of a large lake. They must have planned the background music just for us because they were playing some oldies out of the 50’s, most of which we recognized--Nat King Cole, Franky Lane, Bing Crosby, in case any of you are old enough to remember those singers. We had finished our dinner, which was absolutely fabulous by the way, and were patiently waiting for the check, when the unexpected ‘Dinner Show’ began.





The sun was just beginning to set and the reflections on the water and clouds were starting to show a little color. I got my camera out of my purse and took a picture, only to find that the sunset proceeded to become more and more brilliant as the seconds ticked away. I’d think it couldn’t get any better and then it did, again and again and again. I’ve only showed about six frames here, but I probably took 20 or so altogether over a period of about 5-7 minutes. It was just an amazing way to finish a meal and an evening. Once we paid the bill and started to leave, we met Poi (the chef and owner) out in front of the restaurant, where he was carrying his beautiful little two-year-old daughter and was walking with an older gentleman, a Palagi (white). We congratulated Poi on the delicious meal and he introduced us to his father, who is an Englishman and who founded the hotel. Poi’s mother is a native Samoan and is also the Minister of Health in Samoa. She lives most of the week in Apia (the Capitol on the other island) and comes home on weekends, while the retired father stays at the hotel on Savai’i, where his son has taken over the management, and the cooking. We also complimented them on the glorious sunset extravaganza, and his father said we must come back when the moon is full and the show is magnified by a moonrise over the water. Since we’ll be living right there once we move, I expect we’ll get to see it anytime the sun and moon decide to make an appearance together.

You are all probably wondering what on Earth kind of a mission we’re on, what with shopping, sightseeing, killing time, dinner out, wandering all over town, going snorkeling, etc. Well, that’s a good question. We probably don’t even know the whole answer yet. The ultimate purpose of our mission is to bring souls to Christ, which can be achieved through many avenues. Our specific avenue and job title is Member and Leader Support, which means a lot of things, but especially that we are here on Savai’i to assist new members, who have accepted the Gospel of Jesus Christ, to ease into church activity and help train them as they are called to leadership positions. We will also be friend-shipping inactive members and hoping to help them recognize the blessings of returning to full fellowship and activity, and, of course, set their eyes on the ultimate goal of going to the Temple with their families. Since the Stakes are beginning several new programs for activation that are just getting off the ground, we have to wait until we meet with all the wards and their members, identify those who need fellowshipping and then team up with the members to visit, get acquainted with, and continue to fellowship. Our first Member Activation Fireside is next week, where we’ll be making appointments to start the visits. (a ‘fireside’ in Mormon jargon just means an informal gathering of people, outside of the regularly scheduled meetings, where different subjects are discussed or presented. They usually take place in people’s homes, (‘around the fire’ so to speak) but not always. John attended a Priesthood meeting with all the Stake Presidents and the area authorities and discussed with them our availability to help. We’ll be going all over the island attending firesides and teaming up with members in all the wards. Probably about 30% of all Samoans are Mormons and the young missionaries are teaching and baptizing new members all the time, so we have our work cut out for us once we really get started. We will also be meeting with the missionary preparation class, which is held once a week, to help young men and women who desire to serve a mission to prepare themselves spiritually to go out into the world to preach the gospel. Hopefully we can do some good. In the meantime, we are just biding our time, shopping for food and furnishings for a new apartment, and visiting around with anyone who will talk to us. We actually do our snorkeling on our “P” day (preparation day), sort of a day-off from missionary work to write letters, emails, clean house, have some sort of recreation and, of course, do laundry.

JOHN: One day this week we drove up the coast to see if we could find the village where I served as a young missionary. I was unable to find the exact spot where our old house stood. It was behind a chapel, and the chapel is now gone. The other fales there looked unfamiliar to me, but there was a new chapel nicely situated on a projection, right on the coastline. The village is called Moesavili, which means sleep in the breeze, and there was a nice, cool breeze coming in off the ocean as we walked around this beautiful new chapel. The grounds were landscaped and maintained beautifully, and we found a cab driver and 2 lady missionaries who informed us that this was, in fact, the Moesavili chapel. The coastline there is something you might expect to see on a travel brochure – absolutely beautiful.
I remember the meetings we held there in the old chapel with everyone sitting on the floor, and the small children sitting cross-legged, and falling asleep in the meetings with their heads on the floor in front of them and their legs still crossed. The women nursed their babies openly in the meetings, and the sacrament consisted of pieces of taro, baked bananas, or breadfruit, because bread was not often available. We were often asked to speak without any advanced warning in these meetings, and this necessitated our always having something ready to speak on. Now there are nice pews, an organ, bread, and enough good, knowledgeable members to do most things without relying heavily on the missionaries. I look forward to meeting people in their homes to help them strengthen their resolve to be active in the church. I believe the Polynesians are the pure blood of Israel as suggested by the Book of Mormon, and the reason they are so strongly Christian is because of that heritage. So many have accepted the gospel of Jesus Christ and joined the church, and the church is well thought of now, and experiences much less persecution than in former days. I believe that when they hear the message of the restored gospel they are quick to recognize the “Shepherd’s” voice because they are of His fold. Unfortunately, the customs of the country make it difficult for many to remain faithful, and they go back to their old ways. That’s why we’re here—to bring them back to Christ. My impatience needs to be tempered by the fact that we are now just one month into our mission, and we spent only 5 days in the MTC in Provo, while the young missionaries spend 9 weeks in Provo just learning the language before they come here. I’ll keep working on the patience thing.

KAREN: Soooo…… are you ready for another little episode in the continuing saga of “The Krogh Laundry Trials and Tribulations”? No??? Well, just skip ahead then, but I do want to get this down in our record and it does continue to get more and more comical. After the first hand-washing and wringing incident, we planned very carefully to watch for a fully sunny day to accomplish the next washday. That doesn’t mean it wouldn’t rain later, but at least we could be assured there would be no power outage. First thing in the morning, on what appeared to be a very bright day, we took a couple of loads over to the wash house, loaded up two machines, turned them on and noticed the water was still coming in at a trickle. Ooookaaaay, what next? We then noticed a hose hooked up to the adjacent laundry tub and realized that we probably had to help fill the washers with water from the hose in order to get them to fill up before nightfall. We got one filled and started, and then filled the other one and got it on its way. Piece of cake!!! Well……. not until you realize that the washer is probably going to spin all the soapy water out at some point and will need to be filled again in order to rinse the clothes. We took turns checking the machines on and off until it looked like they were ready to be filled again. We repeated the earlier regimen of filling each washer for the rinse and congratulated ourselves when we were finally able to pull clean, spun-damp clothes from the washers with absolutely no wringing on our part. Knowing we had to leave soon, and also knowing it would probably rain while we were gone, we proceeded to hang the first batch of clothes in the laundry room. We had pretty well filled up the lines when John went to get the second batch, so I figured we’d have to hang them over the backs of chairs, etc. in order to get them all dry. When he came back in, quite a bit later and empty-handed, I asked what had gone wrong now. With a silly grin on his face he said, “oh I just hung them out Samoan style.” He led me to the front porch and proudly showed me where he had laid them neatly out on the front sidewalk ‘Samoan style’.
For generations before Samoans had clotheslines, all of their laundry was laid out all over the yard, on the grass, and especially on the abundance of black volcanic rock all over the island. The first time I saw it 5 years ago, I thought the laundry had blown off a clothesline. I mentioned it John and he said that’s the way they always do it. Most homes have clotheslines now, but many still use the old time-tested method of spreading them on the warm, clean black rocks, or on cement sidewalks or driveways, if they have them. So, John is now a full fledged Samoan laundress. Fortunately, it did not rain while we were gone that day, and we were able to gather up the dry clothes when we got home. Now….don’t forget to tune in next week for the next laundry tale. Actually, it’s already happened, but I won’t burden you with it this time around. It’s definitely time to end this for now.

With love from The Kroghs