Monday, November 8, 2010

Blog #12 – September 28, 2010

It’s only been a little over a week since I sent off the last blog segment and I am determined to try to write as I go on this next one, so it won’t seem such a huge job when I get behind on it. Thank you so much for your comments and emails, especially your thoughts about all the details I write about. I fear that my long-winded entries will become a bore to everyone, but I’m having such a great time writing the experiences we’re having, I hope you’ll forgive my desire to not leave out anything. When we get back home and start missing Samoa and her beautiful people and spectacular scenery, we’ll have a wonderful record of this amazing adventure to look back on.

One morning early, John woke me up asking where the camera was. I told him it was in the car and he said I might want to get some pictures of the beautiful sunrise that was showing itself off. I threw on some clothes, grabbed the camera and was able to get a couple of shots before it started to fade. It only takes a few minutes for the sunrises and sunsets to lose their color after they’ve hit their peak.



These were some of the beauties we took that morning. The best part of most sunrises and sunsets, besides the color, is the cloud formations.
These clouds were across the sky from the sunrise. We’ve never seen clouds like we see in Samoa and here are a few we snapped just before sunset on another day, as we were dropping some piano students off at their house, which sits right across the road from the beach.



We’ll probably have 100’s of these by the time we get home, but each one just seems so amazing, I like to record it along with the rest of our memories.

We finished this last week off with a trip back up to Sasa’ai, where we’ve been making a lot of family visits with the Ward Mission Leader, Konofese, as well as attending their Sunday meetings for a few weeks. We noticed as we attended the Sasa’ai sacrament meeting and then the Moesavili meeting later in the day in the same building, that the organ was being played in both wards by the current full-time sister missionary, Sister La’ule. When I asked her about it, she told me they had no other pianists in both of those wards with enough experience to play in church. I mentioned to her that I was teaching a piano class down in the McKay ward and wondered if they could use one up there to help get some organists prepared to take over when Sister La’ule gets transferred. She suggested we visit with the bishops and ward music chairmen of both wards and see if there is any interest, as long as I am here and have been sent along on our mission with materials to teach keyboard and conducting classes. Both bishops were very enthused with the idea and we will be meeting with both wards this week to get the class started. Our intension was to have one combined class for both wards, with maybe 4 or 5 from each ward. Amazingly we had over 25 people attend the meeting who wanted to take the class. I knew that there was only one working piano available at that time and how I could teach a class with that many was beyond me. It was finally decided that we would split the class into two classes, one for each ward. We did have to limit the number or people eligible at that time, because there were a few younger children there, who couldn’t speak English and I knew that would be a problem. We explained to them that they needed to be 14 years old, unless they had a parent or older sibling taking the class as well that could help translate and help them practice at home. About two in each class fell into that category. I felt bad to disappoint the others, but we explained that this would only be the first such class and that as soon as I had trained others to teach the course after I’m gone, they would be able to teach the younger children in Samoan, even though the lesson books are all in English.

After the meeting, while we were talking to one bishop’s wife who will be taking the class and is coordinating it for her ward, John asked how in the world I’d ever be able to teach so many people with just one piano, and all of them expected to practice every day. We had enough problems in the other ward with just 11 students and 5 pianos. I just shook my head and said “I have absolutely no idea, but we’ll just have to hope for a miracle.” The Bishop’s wife gave me a ‘thumbs up’ and I hope we’re right about the miracle.

Well, the miracle happened. I had been in contact with the Church Music department who had sent me more copies of the keyboard course kit. I had a couple of cheap little roll-up pianos, one that I had brought with me and another that I had shipped, but they were beginning to malfunction. I realized that I should probably buy my own small keyboard so as to have at least one other instrument available to the classes. Finding that there were none available here in Samoa, I tried on line to find some in New Zealand, where the families in the first ward, who had their own keyboards, had purchased them. The only thing I could find on line in New Zealand was a site where I could bid on used keyboards, which I’d have no idea about whether they were in working order. I decided to call Diane Bastian on the skype, who is the sister in the Church Music Department who had sent me the extra copies of the lesson books, and asked if she could recommend a keyboard that I could buy that would work down here. She informed me that the same Harman Grant fund that had provided the books, could also supply a few practice keyboards for us at no charge. I asked “What do you mean by a few?” She nonchalantly said that she could probably provide at least 6 if we needed them. Because we had just had word that all the shipping and mailing procedures in the mission had been changed, I was not able to place an order at that time, but told her I would email her with details. When I found that the shipping procedure from the States had not changed, I sent her an email and asked if it would be possible to send the 6 keyboards, along with keyboard course lesson books and adapters for each, and gave her the shipping instructions. When I didn’t hear back from her after a week, I got nervous that maybe it wasn’t going to happen, so I tried to call her again, only to find she was in meetings all day. The lady I talked to suggested I send her an email asking my questions, which I did that very day. After a couple of days, when we went back to the internet café to send and pick up new messages, there was a message from her saying that 8, yes 8, new keyboards, plus books and adaptors, had been ordered on Oct. 11, at no charge to us and we were to let them know when we had received them. WOW!! That was our miracle and just what we’ll need to make these classes realistically possible. It will take a few weeks to get them, but just knowing they’re coming will make the next few lessons tolerable. I’ll be able to leave three in some homes in each ward for daily practice and keep two for the other class, and then gather them all up on class days, so that we’ll have ten available for the classes. Halleluiah!! It will certainly take some extra running around to gather up and deliver the keyboards, but we’re happy to be able to do it, knowing we’ll have what we need for each class.

Moving along, as I was visiting with the one Bishop and his wife, she asked if there was any kind of an activity that we could do for their young men/young women at mutual. We told her about some of the things we’ve already done in other wards, like a dance class, dating seminar, or music conducting, etc. When she heard that we had taught one group how to waltz, she jumped on that and we set a date to come last Friday night to the Bishop’s house, where they had a computer with all kinds of music downloaded on it, and a very large room to teach the class in. We went up Thursday evening to go over the music ahead of time, and found she had a lot of really good waltz music. That made our job simple. When we taught the waltz class before, finding the right type of music with ¾ time was a challenge.

When we asked how many mutual kids would be there, she said probably about 30. When we got there on Friday evening, there were only about 8 girls and 1 guy when they started mutual, which made a little difficulty in terms of dancing partners. By the time their opening exercise was over and we had started teaching them the basic waltz step from a diagram on a blackboard, others started trickling in, on Samoan time as usual, and we ended up with about 14 couples. Now, ballroom dancing is not a common thing for Samoans to do, especially where boy and girl dance together in dance position. I think I talked before about our first dating seminar, and what a challenge it had been because Samoans don’t date or demonstrate any kind of affection to the opposite sex in public, like holding hands, or arms around each other, etc. Once we had taught the individuals the steps, we kind of paired them up opposite each other so that the boys would be waltzing forward and the girls backward and their feet would work together. We had them take each others’ hands at first, and they seemed to have no problem with that. They stumbled over each other a little in the beginning, trying to get the hang of moving their feet opposite each other, and then introduced the waltz position with hands on shoulders and waist and other hands being held. They took that in their stride as well, and started to do fairly well together just doing a plain square box in a waltz step. Then we had them move across the floor, with the boys pushing the girls backward all the way, and then started turning them a little so they could move around the floor. We had them change partners quite often so that the tall girls didn’t always have to dance with the little short boys. Then we did some different varieties of partner changing like a snowball, starting with one couple dancing until the music stops, and then those two splitting up and asking someone else to dance, and again and again until all were dancing. Then we had them form two circles, boys on the outside and girls on the inside. They started dancing with the person by them in the circle and then when the music stopped, the girls would stand still and the boys would move on to the next partner, and continue doing that all around the circle. This was all new stuff for them and they really seemed to enjoy it. We were a couple of boys short, but some of the girls were more than happy to take a turn as a boy. It’s not like we are these great dance teachers, but we know enough elementary steps to make us look like pros to these inexperienced dancers. It was great fun. We had to slip out a little early in order to get back down to Salelologa for the MTC class, but the kids were still dancing when we left.


Here are just a few pictures I snapped while they were dancing.

As we left the Bishop’s house and walked back to our car, we had to walk through an open fale where there were several men working on a dugout canoe, carving it from one large tree trunk. We stopped to watch them for a few minutes and were amazed at their expertise using these funny little carving tools, that looked kind of like a short hoe, with the sides bent in and then sharpened to scoop out the wood chips from the inside of the canoe. They had just started this the day before and would probably finish it that evening. They took turns working on the carving and then took a rest with a game of checkers while the others carved for awhile. Of course, there was also a big pot of hot cocoa Samoa being passed around to add to the fun. They were all having a wonderful time, and carving out a functional fishing boat in the process.



They loved having me take their pictures both carving and playing checkers

We went straight from there to the MTC class, where there were about 20 potential missionaries in attendance. We took 9 of them to another room, 5 young men and 4 young women who had mission calls to English speaking missions, and we worked with them on the English lessons and scriptures. Three of the girls were going to California, one to Ohio, and the boys were divided up going to Salt Lake city, New Zealand and Australia. It’s fun to help get them a little more prepared for their missions, and for the different Formal MTC training they’ll get in Provo or New Zealand. Our pre-mission experiences volunteering at the MTC in Provo, have been a big help to us in teaching them a little of what to expect when they get there. Fortunately, they all speak pretty fair English already, but have a lot more to learn in terms of missionary lessons, and casual everyday English conversations. They’ll all be experiencing winter for the first time, and that will be a rude awakening for them, but I think they are looking forward to these new experiences in a new culture, and a little nervous too.

These young adults are so sharp. They were all pretty avid seminary and institute attendees and really know their scriptures, of which they have an amazing number already memorized. Memorizing is an incredible gift the Samoans have. I guess for centuries nothing was written down and all the family histories, etc., were memorized and passed on to the next generation. The children started memorizing English primary songs and hymns at a really young age, even though most of the younger ones don’t start learning English in school until 6th grade or so. We love working with these young people, especially since it can mostly be done in English, putting me in more of a comfort zone.

Speaking of English, we spent the last two days going to Stake conference meetings, where everything is translated from Samoan into English and English into Samoan, because most general authorities who come are English speakers, though many come from other foreign countries. I was given headphones at the beginning of each session and happily listened to two different interpreters share the messages of the conference. This is such a nice treat for me, because I sit through soooooo many meetings where nothing but Samoan is spoken and I have a long way to go before I’ll be able to understand everything. Even though I’ve learned a lot of words and phrases, and can read and understand a lot of Samoan, when the Samoans speak so softly and so fast, my brain just doesn’t keep up. It doesn’t depress me or put me to sleep like it did in the beginning, because I know enough to be able to listen for words I know and catch a few ideas here and there. In Sunday School and Relief Society, I have English lesson books which really help me to keep up with some of it.

This conference was just an amazing experience and we still feel a little of the glow from it. Of course, the musical performances were spectacular, as usual. There was a large choir from one ward, almost 80 members, who sang some really beautiful arrangements of hymns. The best one was my favorite primary song, “As I have Loved you”, all in English. It started with a little primary girl about 8 years old singing a solo at the microphone and the choir humming background music. After a nice chord change in the accompaniment, the whole choir joined in, in English, and then again in Samoan.

(Pics missing??) As is often the case, the choir comes all dressed in identical dresses and white shirts and matching ties, this time a pretty aqua, trimmed in black. The choirs are so large, they have to sit on the first several rows of the congregation, because there is absolutely no room for them in the “choir seats”. They took up the first 8 rows of benches, with about ten across each row. I don’t know why this impresses me so much--probably because I’ve been a choir director for years and have been lucky to fill even half the choir seats on the stand. These Samoan choirs would be a dream come true for any choir director, not only because of their numbers, but because of their natural singing ability.

Some of the inactive families that we’ve visited were in attendance, to our delight, and a couple of the men were presented for ordination as elders. For those of you reading this blog who are not members, you must get tired of hearing all this Mormon jargon, but becoming an elder is a huge step toward deep spiritual activity in the church and exercising this new priesthood in leading their wives and children toward a stronger unity within their families and with the Lord, bringing peace and contentment in their homes.

Please forgive all our references to LDS Jargon, but this is what our mission is all about and we hope you understand what a joy it is for us to serve these incredible people and help them to come to Christ.

After the conference session today, we were invited to join the guests of honor and the stake presidency and their families in a delicious feast, where there was way too much food as usual, and certainly enough that was appealing to me, in spite of the octopus and other dishes I’m not accustomed to yet. There were so many leftovers, that each of us was sent home with a plate of food for another meal tomorrow, also a common Samoan practice.

Another choice experience we had last Sunday was to attend the LMS church White Sunday service presided over by our good friends Reverend Esera and his wife Tamara. I’m not sure why it’s called White Sunday, but it’s celebrated all over Samoa in all the churches and is a time when people travel from far and wide to be with their families in other places. The big difference in the service is that the preacher doesn’t preach, but the whole program is put on by all the children and young people of their congregation. They’ve been practicing for weeks for these performances and a lot of work was spent making costumes, etc. There must have been over 250 children performing, and like the primary programs at home, each child had an individual part and they put their heart and soul into performing it.




The costumes were pretty flashy, and each part portrayed some special bible story.
Before the program began, there was a special baptism ceremony performed where Esera baptized three small children by scooping water from a special carved wood stand and bowl and sprinkling the babies’ foreheads.

The picture I captured of one beautiful little baby girl, who sat right in front of us, was so precious. She was all dressed up for her baptism in a white lacey dress, plus a bonnet that had been put on upside-down by American Standards. They had a hard time keeping it on her and had to keep adjusting it, even during the baptism.

We truly enjoyed the whole program and could see how much work it had taken to do rehearsals and costumes.

These are pictures I took of Esera and Tamara during the service. They are both very handsome and distinguished people, and we love them dearly. Esera’s wife Tamara, was responsible for preparing all the younger children for their parts, having to make sure that each child could shine for their parents’ benefit. There were probably about 100 of the small ones and poor Tamara was worn out by the time the program was over. We had a curious call from her a few days earlier, asking if she could come over and talk to us privately, without her husband. She seemed upset and we nearly went nuts wondering what it was all about. We figured that maybe the powers that be at their church had thought they were spending too much time with the Palagi Mormon Missionaries and she was going to tell us that they had to curtail our friendship a little. She wanted us to pick her up and take her to our house to talk, which seemed strange also. We had a little prayer before we went to pick her up, asking that whatever the problem was that we would be inspired to react in a Christ-like way, showing love and understanding. We were saddened by the possibilities we had imagined, because we so cherished the friendship we had developed with them. To our great relief, when we all got sat down at our place, she confided that she had been terribly sick and depressed trying to get this program ready to everyone’s satisfaction and had had a bad attack of some sort at her morning aerobics class that left her weak and breathless. She’d gone to the doctor, who said her blood pressure was up and she had some bronchitis, or something, and sent her home with some meds and told her to go to bed for a few days. She knows John has a medical background of sorts and wanted his opinion on her symptoms, and she wanted to unload some of her worries on some good friends who were not members of her husband’s congregation. We felt touched that she trusted us enough to share her problem with us. She had been quite ill physically that day and Esera had to leave and be gone all day for a funeral across the island, and the longer she stayed home alone the more depressed she got, until she finally called us. Her attack reminded me somewhat of an anxiety attack I’ve had a time or two when stresses mounted up, and I think that relieved her a little. We had a moving visit with her, and had prepared a simple supper of beef stew and garlic bread, which she really seemed to enjoy, especially the garlic bread. It was something new to her, and she must have eaten about ten pieces. In the realm of comfort food (and I know all there is to know about comfort food) I’d say good garlic bread sits pretty high on the list. She was anxious to know how to make it and share it with Esera, so I sent along some of the leftover butter mixed with a garlic bread mix that I brought from Utah, so that she could make some at home.

During dinner I told her I think that she does so much hard work as a pastor’s wife, in probably the biggest church on the island, that she’s left absolutely no time for herself. She agreed, but felt guilty and selfish about it. John explained that she needed some balance in her life and told her that she could be of better service to others, if she served herself a little first. It was decided that she and I would take a day off every couple of weeks and go off somewhere for lunch and a long visit. We made a date for that and when I took her home, she was in pretty good spirits; and we were so happy to know that the friendship was still very much in tact.

We had our lunch date last week, where I picked her up and we went to a very nice hotel that has a dining room overlooking the most beautiful beach across the road. We went about 11:00, had a lengthy visit and a very leisurely lunch, probably about 3 hours long. It was a great outing for both of us. We’ll be doing it again in a couple of weeks and this time she will pick me up and decide where we will go. I was surprised, because I didn’t think she could even drive, since most drivers in Samoa are men. I just assumed that about her because we’ve always seen her with Esera driving. They’re actually both very well educated, mostly outside of Samoa, and I guess I shouldn’t be surprised. We’ve become very dear friends and she feels like a sister to me. It will be difficult to leave her behind when we go home. They do go to Utah to visit her brother every once in a while, and I’m hoping we’ll have a chance to see them when they make that trip again.

One day when John and I were in the local store, we ran into a group of elders who were hunting for something to eat for lunch. They told us they had just come from a local hotel where they heard they could get pizza, so they had been saving up their money for a special meal. When they got to the hotel, they found they only had pizza at night and that wouldn’t work for a P-day (preparation day when the missionaries have a little time off to do something special, as well as their laundry, letter writing, etc.). We’ve been to that hotel for pizza and it’s fair. We told them so and said that we could fix some pretty good pizza for them on their next P-day. We spent most of the morning that next week making four very large pizzas and they were actually pretty good. Several of these elders are going home soon and I don’t believe they’ve had pizza in the past two years. It seemed like a real treat for them and a lot of fun (and work) for us to provide it for them.
I didn’t think about taking pictures until all the pizza was gone, but we at least got these pictures of the three Palagi elders who were leaving the end of October. As usual, we’ve gotten pretty attached to them, and hope we’ll run into them again at a Samoan reunion after we get back home ourselves.
On another day while we were eating lunch at our place, we heard a clucking sound and realized that we had some uninvited guests in the house. This hen, with her chicks, had been pecking and feeding in the yard and decided to come on in our open door to see what they could find in here. We keep the door open most of the day to get as much air as we can, but other things can get in besides the air. It’s not unusual to be visiting at someone else’s fale and have a hen and her chicks wander in and right across between us and those we’re visiting, and no one thinks much about it. We’re learning to take it in our stride.

The first piano class we started a few months ago in the McKay Ward where we live, is still moving along. The numbers have dwindled from 11 to about 8 and I’m glad for that. The kids who are still coming seem pretty serious about keeping it up. They certainly don’t get their practicing in every day, which is evident at each lesson, but they are making some progress and hopefully the Ward will benefit by a few of them becoming accompanists some day. We still have to double up on the pianos, which slows us down, but hopefully we can move along faster once I get the new keyboards from the Church.


John is so good to help me get the tables and chairs set up and pianos hooked up, and then sits patiently for 1-1/2 hours for the class and then helps clean up. We’re good friends with most of these kids because they were in our first English class earlier in our mission. We’re hoping to have some of them prepare some simple Christmas carols to be performed around Christmastime at church or a ward party. Since we’ll hopefully have the new keyboards by then, we can do a whole chorus of piano players playing together. That’s the dream anyway and hopefully we can make it work.

I do enjoy these classes and even the two new ones where we have large numbers, 19 in one and 16 in the other, where we’re getting along okay with just the one piano in the chapel and one other keyboard that we were able to rig a plug for. The two pianos seemed like a real luxury after a couple of weeks with only one piano. I have some pretty good helpers in these two new classes and so I’m able to split them up in two different rooms where they get more time on the piano, even though they have to play it along with one or two other players. With the two pianos at the church, and the 8 new ones coming, the classes will just be a joy, after what we’ve had to do so far. We’re making it work, though, and know it will get better.

We get to the big market once or twice a month, and when we went last time it was the weekend of White Sunday and a really big day at the market.


I snapped a few pictures here and there, including the one of the big fountain out in front of the building that we’ve never seen working before. I guess White Sunday weekend is something really special.
This picture is of a friend in one of the wards who has a little table set up at the market, where she makes and sells all kinds of Samoan crafts. She’s either a widow or divorcee with several children and this is how she supports them. Her name is Malelega and we’ve bought several things from her. She always seems to find us when we show up at the market, hoping we’ll buy something from her. We usually do, even though we may not really need or want it. Fortunately, she makes typical Samoan fans (also in the picture), which I keep losing, or someone keeps taking, so I always wait to get my next fan from her when I need it; and I’ll tell you, I always need it, either for a fan at church, or a sunshade when we’re out walking around on our visits, or to swat flies wherever we are. Mighty handy little implements, those fans, and they really are inexpensive, even though they’re hand-made. I think most that I’ve purchased were about 6 Tala, which is about $2.60 U.S. I finally printed my name on this last one and we’ll see if I’m able to keep track of it any better.

These pictures were taken at a favorite place we go to lunch every once in a while. The small hotel that it’s in looks a little shabby from the front and is on the main busy street just up from the Wharf. It was recommended to us, or I’m not sure we’d have gone there the first time, which we did on our anniversary in June. We were pleasantly surprised when we came around back of the hotel and saw this lovely setting where the dining room is. We were also pleasantly surprised when we had our first meal there. It was really quite delicious. John had the best steak he’s ever had, anywhere he says, and I had a wonderful chicken fetuccini Alfredo, one of my favorite dishes. The only thing about this place is that if you want to go in the evening, you have to make reservations ahead so they will be sure to open up. We were the only ones there the night of our anniversary, and it took over an hour and a half to get our meal. We weren’t in any big hurry, but we were getting really hungry. The food was worth the wait though. You can go anytime for lunch without a reservation, and we have often still been the only ones there. I don’t know how they stay in business, but we really love it there and maybe we’re the ones keeping them open, because we do go quite often because of the lovely surroundings, the really good food and pretty reasonable prices as well.

This is being written a couple of weeks later. We decided to go back to that hotel for lunch, and when we drove up a lady came out and told us it was closed and the people had gone to New Zealand. We’re not sure if that was for good, or just temporarily, but as we looked in the windows we saw no tables and chairs at all. We’ll be very disappointed if they don’t open up again, because we really enjoyed our meals there, in spite of the slow service.
I snapped this picture while waiting our turn at the internet café on a P-day Monday. The place is usually crammed full of elders, as it was on this particular Monday, including Elder Pili in the black shirt. We don’t mind the wait and usually have enough other stuff to do in town that we’re able to come back. Often we have to meet different elders there from around the Island to pick up or deliver mail or meds to them. They’ve had a problem recently of having the Zone leaders deliver the mail, who end up carrying it around in their vans for awhile; or the final straw was when one elder’s new shoes from home ended up in the garbage at the Zone leader’s little house, because when he told his companion to gather up the garbage and take it out, this shoe package was just in a brown bag like their garbage bags, so they got taken out with the garbage. Fortunately, when the mission office called them trying to track down the lost shoes, the zone leader and his companion did a search and sheepishly admitted they had been in the garbage. Soooooo, now there is a new mail policy over here on Savaii and that is that all of the mail comes to us and we have to distribute it personally to each elder, and since some of them live so far around the island, it’s easiest to catch them in town on P-day. They give us their letters to mail home as well and we have to keep track of them until someone comes over from Upolo for one reason or another and can take them back and mail them. I’m nervous about having that responsibility, because I am a little prone to lose things myself and I’d hate to be the culprit that deprives a missionary or his family of their precious mail. Thank heaven they mostly do the email thing, so there aren’t as many letters as there probably used to be.

Speaking of me losing things or making blunders, I did a beauty this last week where the mail was concerned. Two weeks ago we had a whole pile of letters for one elder because it was his birthday. Then this week and last week we had all kinds of letters and packages for another new elder that I hadn’t met yet. I asked him last week if it was his birthday and he just politely told me it wasn’t. This week when he received another pile I teased him about the fact that it must be his birthday, which it wasn’t, again. I don’t remember how I found out later that day, but apparently his father had died suddenly, and unexpectedly at age 57, about the second week he was on his mission, less than a month ago. I’d heard about an elder losing his father, but didn’t know who it was until at this Zone meeting the other day. Then I realized why he was getting all this mail and packages from home. I felt so bad after asking him twice if it was his birthday. I apologized later at the meeting and had a nice little visit with him. He was so sweet about it, I just had to give him a hug from an old grandma. Knowing how difficult the first few weeks, and even months, can be for the missionaries in Samoa, and especially over here in Savaii, I can’t even imagine how difficult it has been for him to adjust, with the death of his father on top of the other discomforts most new missionaries face. He says it’s getting easier and preaching the gospel, especially where eternal families are concerned, really puts it all into perspective for him and he’s grateful for that. And I’m grateful that he was so forgiving of my apparent insensitivity.

We’ve moved on now to our 8th ward up in Lano. We made contact with the bishop there and he made arrangements for us to do splits with his wife and the ward mission leader. (When I say “splits” it means that John and I split up and I go visiting with one person (Sasa, the bishop’s wife, in this case) and John goes with the ward mission leader. Quite often the elders and sisters will split up and go out with different ward members, especially young men and women who are preparing to go on missions in the near future.) When we visited the Bishop’s fale for the first time, I was so impressed with Sasa's beautiful flower garden that I just had to take pictures.



What’s amazing about these gardens, and we see them all over Samoa, is that they are planted among all the lava rock that is everywhere. The Samoans seem to work around the rock pretty easily, and even use it to their advantage for many, many walls, which we also see everywhere, and to quickly dry their laundry, as you can see in one of these photos. Those black rocks really absorb the heat and are washed almost daily by the prevalent rain storms, so they double quite effectively as clotheslines, and probably even dry the laundry a little faster, which fits in nicely between rainstorms.

When we went back to Lano for our visits a few days later, we waited quite a while in vain for the Ward Mission leader and finally went to his house to find him. He apparently wasn’t back from working up in the bush, so the three of us just went ahead with our visits without him. We visited two inactive widows that day, and Sasa insisted that I take their pictures.

These pictures are of Sasa, in black and white, and Nima, and another photo of Nima sitting on the floor working on weaving a Samoan mat. Nima still feels very strongly about the Church, but she lives so far away and it’s hard for her to walk so far. We offered to pick her up the next Sunday, but she was on her way to Apia to be with a sick daughter. We’ll try that again next week.
The other widow we visited was Sita. When we asked if we could take her picture, she insisted that we include her two grandchildren and then took us outside to the porch, which was attached to her husband’s tomb or grave, and wanted their picture of them standing on it. Samoan graves (tombs) are an everyday part of life here in Samoa. They are always very close to the fale, sometimes even inside or often covered with a very elaborate canopy or enclosed glass house of sorts. We see people lounging on them, wet laundry spread out on them, Samoan mat leaves drying on them, and people having their pictures taken on them or by them. I think I mentioned before that being buried on your own property helps you lay claim to that land in a way.
Well, I think I’m going to call it quits on this blog for now. I actually had several more pages ready, but when I started to add the pictures, I realized there are so many photos to accompany this next section, that it would make this blog segment impossibly long. Soooo we’ll let you have another little rest from our Samoan adventures for a time and I’ll hopefully send this next section off all by itself next week. You won’t be hearing personally from John this time around, simply because I am determined to finish this off, create the email and add the pictures to send on to our daughter, Kelly, who puts it all in order and makes it easy for you to read, with the photos in the right places, etc. (if I’ve done my part right at this end); and I must finish it tonight and John has already gone to bed. (He usually turns into a pumpkin before 9:00 each night, just as I'm getting a good start on some project or other. (so what else is new?) Tomorrow is Sunday and we have a full day scheduled and I want to email this to Kelly first thing Monday morning when we go into the internet café.

One last note, in case you're wondering, John is on this mission with me and is doing just great. He loves everything we're doing and does an amazing job with the Samoan language. People who meet him for the first time are just astounded at how fluent he is. He still complains about not being good enough, and continues to study the language daily. He's made friends with so many little kids along our jogging route and stops to high-5 and talk to them. It seems that wherever we go we hear these little voices calling out from a fale or back in the trees saying, "Hi John", even in areas where we don't think we've been jogging. We often can't even see them, so we just wave in that general direction and hope we got it right. He will definitely be writing some of the next blog, however brief, if I can get him to stay up long enough.

Again I'll truly quit and send all of our love to our dear family and friends from Elder and Sister Krogh, or Elder and Sister Ioane, which is what most of our Samoan friends call us (because it’s easier for them to say than Krogh), or even Elder and Sister John to make it really simple.

Tofa soifoa manuia le po and I'm going to bed too.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Blog #11 - September 9, 2010

It’s about time I got back to this blog. It’s been weeks since I last wrote and it’s been hanging over my head that I must get another segment done while I still remember what needs to go into it. Fortunately I have my pictures piled up to remind me what I haven’t written about yet. Today is a perfect day for this project. It’s been raining on and off since we woke up and then our Zone meeting was cancelled so we are free until about 2:30 this afternoon. We never know when to expect rain, and when it comes we have no clue how long it will persist. Many mornings when we run, the sky will be almost clear when we start, but before we get back we’ve been caught in a real cloudburst that soaks us to the skin and more. We really don’t mind running in the rain, because it’s so much cooler, but our feet get muddy and our poor shoes are totally filled with water. Thankfully we bought washable running shoes, which were meant to go in a washing machine, so the water doesn’t hurt them.
Here’s a look at what the weather’s like out there today. This picture was actually taken about a month ago, but it looks exactly like that right now. It’s just like a lake out there. You’d think it would flood, but the ground is so full of volcanic rock that everything just seeps through it and in an hour it will all be gone except the mud. The mud on the road is so full of sand and small rocks, that you can’t get stuck. It’s quite amazing really.

Speaking of rocks, there has been a huge project taking place along the seashore in front of the hotel and all along the coast here in Lalomolava. They are building a seawall to keep the ocean from eroding away the shoreline. Several feet have been slowly washed away from the Hotel’s shoreline. They’ve been hauling tons and tons of soil and rocks in for months to extend it back out again. There are some places where the hotel land goes almost 30 feet further out from the main building than it did when we first got here. Once they had the shore built out again, they started bringing in load after load of huge rocks, probably averaging about 3 feet in diameter and piling them close to the edge. Then they put down a membrane sort of like landscape cloth about 12 feet wide and pile the big rocks on top of that to keep the soil in place and I’m guessing to keep the plants and weeds from growing up between the rocks. I can’t even begin to imagine what it’s costing the government to do it, after seeing all the 100’s of dump-truck loads of dirt and rock carried in and then large bulldozers and backhoes to move the dirt around and set the rocks in place. We saw a notice in the Apia paper last week that was asking for bids for another huge seawall to be built in another area. We think they’ll go all around both islands before they’re through. Many of the more highly populated areas have had the seawalls for years. We’ve really enjoyed watching the progress on the hotel seawall and think that they are pretty well done except for the final landscaping, which will probably be up to the hotel. You know how we love to landscape with rocks and we would love to have some input on what to do here. That’s not our project, however, and it will be fun to see how they finish it up.



These three pictures show the rocks being dumped, just one of hundreds of loads, rocks being positioned by backhoe, and rocks being laid out on the membrane right down to the water’s edge.
This picture gives you an idea of how far they’ve moved the shoreline out. The edge of the grass by the building on the right and the palm tree in the center of the picture, furthest to the left, were right at the edge of the water when we came in January 2010. John estimates that this one ‘small’ project here in Lalomolava stretches along the shoreline for about 200 yards, give or take a few.
This last picture was taken just as we finished a late evening stroll along the seawall and the clouds formed a beautiful backdrop for the silhouette of the rocks. I’ve never seen clouds like we see here in Samoa. Sometimes they don’t even look real, they are so spectacular.

Our weeks are really filled with all sorts of missionary activities that keep us moving most of the time. We have no real specific schedule, except for running/walking every morning but Sunday, zone meeting every Thursday Morning and I teach a piano class on Thursday afternoons. Most Friday nights we help with the MTC class, especially if there are missionaries headed for English-speaking missions, and then we work with them on the lessons in English. Most other days, we are either visiting with the Ward Mission leaders in one of six different wards, planning and preparing for family home evenings that we set up with some of the inactive members we’ve visited, or calling back, on our own, on some of the families we’ve been working with in other wards, just to keep in touch, even though we aren’t formally working in their wards right now.

The last two weekends we’ve joined with the full time elders and sister missionaries from two zones (plus the two of us and the ward mission leaders and ward missionaries) to do a full canvassing of one ward each week, visiting every house, meeting members, inactive members and nonmembers and inviting them all to a missionary fireside the next day. We do all the visits on Saturday morning and then have the fireside the next evening on Sunday. We do some long distance traveling to get to some of those areas, and find ourselves driving home Sunday night after dark and half-way around the island. The problem with night driving in Samoa is that not only is everything pretty dark, but you never know what’s going to be walking along the narrow road or across the road—pigs, dogs, chickens, horses, cows and lots of people, who like to walk after dark because it is so cool (as in temperature). We’re always greatly relieved to get back home after one of the long dark drives at night.

We’ve had a little success with some of the families we’ve invited back to church and feel happy when they seem to be enjoying it. Others have come a time or two while we’ve worked in their ward, but kind of fizzle out after we’ve moved on. The real key for us is to have the help of the members to keep up the fellowshipping and friendshipping, home teaching, visiting teaching, etc., after we’re gone, so that there is a continual positive connection maintained with them. That works really well in some wards and others just don’t seem to get it yet. We can’t expect success every time, but it sure is satisfying when we feel we are able to help make a difference in some way. If nothing else, we’ve made some really great new friends and even if we don’t see them at church, they all greet us out in the villages or in town. In Savaii the people are so friendly and everybody waves at us all the time. Each time it happens one of us will say “do we know them?” and if we do, we’re not sure where from. We are in so many places all the time. We’ve learned to always wave, just in case it is someone who knows us and we’re not sure we know them. So now everybody waves, and so do we. We drive the same road back and forth every day and see a lot of the same people, even though we may have never met them. I’m sure we’ll really miss that back home.

We’ve had to learn to schedule ourselves carefully, or we end up getting too tired. We have to remember that we are 75 and 72 years old and we can’t keep up the pace that the young missionaries do. We learned not to schedule more that one other activity on the days that we go visiting with the ward mission leaders. We’ll visit from 5 to 7 families, walking quite a distance and mostly sitting on the hard floors of their fales (houses). We’re always happy when we are offered a chair to sit on, but we are usually on the floor. Our poor old bones, joints and muscles can take a real beating on those days. We’ve had some days when we had visits all morning, a mid-afternoon class, visit or ward activity and then a family home evening that night. We’re trying not to do that any more if we don’t absolutely have to. We especially like to keep a day free from the visits between the other days just to let our bodies recuperate a little. We usually visit three to four days a week, and schedule other types of activities on the off days. We seldom take a real P-day, but just spread our duties of shopping, cooking, laundry, emailing, recreation, etc., on those off days during the week. We still put in a little time studying language every day. John, of course, is getting better and better and I’m still studying, forgetting, not hearing, memorizing, forgetting, etc. I have some things that I have committed to memory, but so much of what I need is to be able to carry on a conversation in normal Samoan, and my big problem is that I can’t really hear what native Samoans are saying, they talk so fast and many so softly that I’m at a real loss. I smile a lot, especially at the children. Even when John is helping me and speaking sentences that I know how to say, he has to repeat them a couple of times before I really hear all the vowels and consonants correctly. When I listen to talks and lessons at church I am hearing and recognizing more and more words, but still can’t put them all together to make a complete thought. I’ll hear a word I know and think, “oh yeah, that means so and so” and by the time I figure that word or phrase out, the person has spoken several other words that I didn’t catch at all. I think I’m better than I was at first and seem to advance a little more every week. Maybe by the time I go home, I’ll be able to actually carry on a conversation in Samoan. I get by with what little I do understand and some pretty good translations, and gratefully there are many English speakers here. At least it doesn’t discourage me like it did before and I guess that’s progress of a sort. I remember when Benj was on his mission and every letter for a while had something about his language not being up to what he’d like. Then we got a letter telling us he had been carrying on a conversation with a kid at a park or something and realized he was speaking Spanish without thinking. We never heard about his language after that. I can’t imagine me getting to that point any time soon.

Last month we had a special treat. Another missionary couple from Apia, Elder and Sister Squire, who were coming over for a few days to teach some classes at Vaiola, asked us to join them on a little two day trip up to the north of our island to stay in a hotel at Vaisala and do some great snorkeling. When we were here 5 years ago, several of us came over to Savaii for three days and stayed in a hotel right on the ocean and planned to snorkel. One of the other missionaries had served up there 50 or more years ago and said it would be spectacular. When we got there, however, we discovered that the shoreline had been hit really hard with a hurricane a few years before, and it had really devastated the trees, the beach and the coral. When we went snorkeling back then in a lovely little lagoon close by, it was like a graveyard on the ocean floor, where all the coral had been torn up and it just looked like it was covered with a layer of ashes. We were all quite disappointed, especially the couple who had made the arrangements. We actually had a pretty good stay in spite of the bad snorkeling. Ever since we’ve been back, we’ve tried in vain to find that little hotel again and figured it must have just closed down. To our great surprise, when we went back to Vaisala last month with the Squires, it turned out to be the very same hotel. All the trees and brush had grown back in again, and even though there was a residue of the old “ashes” still apparent, the ocean floor was just covered with new living coral and all the sealife that lives around it. What a delight it was so see the rebirth of that area.
When we checked in to our little cottage right on the beach, we were greeted by these towels arranged on the bed with fragrant natural flowers. It was a nice little room with a bathroom and hot water shower, and a lovely little porch out front with chairs and tables.
This is the view from our front porch.
This a view of the porch itself, with John sitting and reading.

We ate lunch in the car on the way up, so that we could start snorkeling as soon as we got there about 1:30 p.m. Now-----the Squires are diehard snorkelers. When they set out from shore, they are gone for 2-3 hours. It’s not like it is for us at Aganoa where we go out a little ways and paddle around for an hour or so and then come back in to rest or eat lunch and then go back out for a while. I was a little nervous about going out too far after a bad experience I had back in February at Aganoa Beach. I guess this is as good a time to tell about that as any. It was so terrifying for me back then, that I didn’t want to tell the family about it for fear of worrying them. Anyway, we had been having a wonderful time snorkeling and moving on out toward the reef. I felt like I was almost flying because the current was carrying me over the coral so fast. I remembered then about the warning signs on the beach about the dangerous undertow and realized we were probably caught in it. John was just ahead of me so I called out to him that we needed to go back. We turned around and he headed back to shore, not realizing that I wasn’t right behind him. I could not fight the current. I was really in over my head, literally and figuratively. I fought and fought to make some headway and only got pushed further toward the reef, where the big waves break and all of a sudden the ocean gets ve-e-e-r-r-r-ry deep. I was mostly just treading water, which gratefully was quite easy for me back then with about 45 extra pounds of fat on me to keep me buoyant, and the sea water helps to hold you up as well. I saw that John made it to shore and when he looked back for me, he couldn’t see me. I called “help!” and waved at him, so he headed back into the water to come to my assistance. About this time I realized that I had better put my face and mask back in the water and just paddle as hard as I could. I had already said a couple of prayers, because I knew I was in trouble and wasn’t sure I’d survive. I put my face back in the water only to discover the dark navy blue of the deep ocean and realized I’d been washed out past the reef. It frightened me so much that I ripped my mask and snorkel off and I guess in my panic I let go of it, because I never saw it again. I still had my fins on, but couldn’t really swim well with my face out of the water. I thought I was done for. Then I saw John swimming toward me--wow was I happy to see him. Unfortunately, he had worn himself out swimming back in the first time and then back out to help me and didn’t have much strength left. We battled together for awhile to no avail and I was pretty sure we weren’t going to make it. Suddenly I looked toward the shore and noticed the wife of the resort owner waving at me, and pointing off the other direction. When I looked over that way, I saw her husband running into the water with his surfboard. I remember saying “Thank God” as he was quickly making his way toward us. My prayer had been heard. When I was able to put my hands on the surfboard, I thought I’d died and gone to heaven…. Hmmmm, well actually I think I realized we probably weren’t going to go the heaven just yet. We still had to work really hard to paddle behind the surfboard, but we were at least making some progress. Instead of taking us straight in, he took us off to the left quite a ways where the current wasn’t so bad and then on in. His son came out with another surfboard. They put John on that one because he was so tired from two trips out and back he could hardly stay up, and he has not one ounce of fat on his body to help him like I did. When we were in close enough for me to put my feet on the bottom, I felt a huge sense of relief but also horror at how close we had come to not making it back in. We’re almost sure we couldn’t have without their help. When I was almost to the shore, I was so worn out I had to just sit in the water for awhile to get my breath and strength back and to calm down a little. Another thing I’ve learned about myself is that I can get seasick snorkeling and floating on top of the water with the waves gently rocking me. Well I’d had more than just a gentle rocking on this trip and had swallowed several gulps of sea water, so I was really sick. John was ready to go eat lunch, but all I wanted was a Sprite and maybe a couple of his salty French fries and that did help me feel a little better, physically anyway. At that point, I didn’t care if I EVER saw the ocean again and I’ve always loved the ocean. Not seeing the ocean becomes a little difficult when you live only 500 feet away and the road you drive every day skirts it all the way around the Island. I ended up having terribly bad dreams about that experience and relived the terror of it over and over for several weeks. It was almost like I was suffering from post traumatic stress. That, on top of the isolation and homesickness I was experiencing those first couple of months, sent me into a tailspin of depression. John and Elder Montgomery finally gave me a blessing and at least the dreams subsided a little. After working with the mission nurse and Benj over the skype, I was able to get some help with meds and was able to finally pull out of the depression after about six more weeks. If I hadn’t known what a dream this mission had been for John for 50 years, I’d probably have insisted on going home. I was able to work my way out of it with prayers, meds and a lot of positive thinking and talking to myself. On top of all that, I had stomach pains that kept me awake constantly for weeks and I could hardly eat. I don’t know if it was anxiety or just the total change of diet and some dehydration, but I lost 25 pounds during that first month after the ocean scare. Not that I didn’t need to lose twice that much, but I’d not want to do it that way again.

I’ve continued on with my morning runs and watched the diet after that and have lost another 20 or so on purpose. I’m feeling just great physically and mentally now and feel that I have really adjusted well to this crazy life we’re living, including being able to share that “washed out to sea” story without plunging back into despair. Anyway, that’s why I was so nervous about going to a new place to snorkel. I’d been back to Aganoa beach a few times and was able to stay close to shore and have a nice time. This new adventure with the Squires scared me a little, but they assured me there was no dangerous current there at all. We stayed pretty close to the rocky shore at first and then went on around into the little lagoon that had looked so bad when we were here years ago. It was all grown in again and was just so beautiful and peaceful. Somehow or other we lost John when we went into the Lagoon, so I stayed pretty close to the Squires the whole time until we found him again, but not until we’d been gone more than two hours, clear out to the reef and swimming in 12 to 15 ft. of water. I didn’t want to head back in by myself, even though I was getting a little seasick again and was pretty tired. Sister Squire recognized that I was wearing out, so she suggested that she and I head back in and leave her husband out by the reef. I gladly accepted and hadn’t realized how far out we were until I noticed how long it took us to get back in. There was no undertow though and I felt pretty much in control, to my great relief. John was waiting for us on shore and getting a little cold in the breeze, so Sis. Squire suggested we go over to this other little area of the beach that was really shallow and calm, so it was like lounging in a nice warm bathtub. We just lolled around there talking, and feeding the fish that swim right up close to shore, for quite a bit while we waited for Elder Squire to come back in and join us. That was probably a little more difficult snorkeling that day than I would have chosen, but it was actually very therapeutic for me to master it after that first scare. After we had a nice warm shower and got dressed again, we wandered along the beach taking pictures and headed for the Dining room for supper.




These are some of the pictures I took that evening of the sun rays through the clouds, the warm, shallow little beach where we went to lounge around and get warm, a view from a hill above the hotel, with our cottage on the immediate right, and another picturesque shot along the way to the dining room. It’s re-e-e-a-lly a sacrifice to be serving a mission in such an out-of-the-way place, but then SOMEBODY HAS TO DO IT!!!! RIGHT???. Actually the isolated part does make it a little difficult at times, but being able to take a couple of days like these at Viasala once in a while, certainly does make up for the other more stressful parts.

We had a lovely dinner on the balcony of the hotel dining room where we took more pictures (181 – 183)


and then went back to the Squires porch and played games until bedtime. We got up early and went snorkeling again and had a great day and then had to start back to get the Squires on the 4:00 Ferry headed back to Apia. All in all, it was a wonderful break from our usual duties as missionaries. That’s the nice thing about being a Senior missionary. We have fewer restrictions and more opportunities for recreation than the young missionaries do. We don’t even tell them about our snorkeling trips, because they are not allowed to go in the ocean at all.

Seeing these pictures today made us want to go back up to Visaula again. We realized that the MTC class had been cancelled for Friday night and we were planning to go snorkeling at Aganoa on our P-day on Saturday, so we decided to head back up to Visaula tomorrow afternoon (Friday) and stay over until Saturday afternoon. That will be another nice break after several weeks of some pretty stressful days.

I mentioned a piano class I’ve been teaching for several weeks now. It started out very simply with me teaching one inactive teenager who didn’t seem interested in going back to church with her parents. We had taken my little roll-up piano to a family home evening we had with their family and she was quite taken with it. Her mom told us she had had to give up her piano class at school because of the need to take another class and she had been very disappointed. Knowing I had been sent with some conducting and piano keyboard teaching aids by the missionary department because of my music background, I volunteered to teach her once a week. I had already sent for another couple of roll-up pianos, because the first one was such a hit with all the families that I feared it would be worn out soon. I had given her about three lessons, when one day the Bishop’s wife came to their house visiting teaching while I was giving Tu’i her piano lesson. Sister Fuga saw me teaching and asked if I would be willing to teach her three teenage girls as well. I was really enjoying these lessons, so I said an immediate ‘yes’ before I realized that I had only one book and I was leaving that with Tu’i to practice with every day. It turns out the Bishop’s family had a keyboard at their home and if the Bishop was willing to make copies of the first few lessons in the book for his daughters to use, we could probably make that work until I could get ahold of more copies of the lesson book. Two extra girls came to sit in on the next lesson and wanted to continue, then several others in the ward asked me also. I had a talk with the Bishop and the Ward Music Chairman and said I would be willing to teach all 11 of them if I could get some help from others in the ward who played the piano already. Also, we had to let others know that there was not room for any others in the class. A couple of the kids brought their little brothers and sisters to join in, but I had to tell them I couldn’t handle any of the younger kids this time around. As soon as this class is over, I may try another one if I’m still around. One of the reasons I really needed helpers was that it’s possible I won’t be here to finish the class, and they would probably be able to carry on without me. Besides not having enough music to go around, we needed more pianos, so we asked around and were able to find another couple of portable keyboards, so I teach the class with the Primary Piano, three other keyboards, and my two little roll-up pianos. The kids have to double up during the class, but it seems to be working okay. Kimmy had told me that she does group lessons, and the kids seem to try a little harder to keep up with the others. It seems to work that way for me too. Because Samoan schedules are so lax, it’s a real challenge to get everyone there on time, if they show up at all. I’ve had a couple of days with no helpers at all, so I’ve taken to reminding them each week on the day before the class. I have to go to their houses to do that, because they have no phones. Then I have to pick up several of the kids on lesson day, because they live quite a ways away from the church and they are bringing their keyboards. Today when I went to pick up the first girl, she was asleep, so I had to wait for her. The next girl was not home at all and no one seemed to know where she was. When I went to pick up the third girl, she came out to the car and said, “oh are we having class today? I thought it would be cancelled because of the rain.” She did go back in and get her keyboard and came along with us. I’m learning some patience I never knew I needed before I was confronted with the Samoan culture. There’s just no big rush for anything. Samoan time is almost always late, if you remember at all, and if you miss this week, you’ll just come next time, even though you’ll end up behind in the piano class. I had to let go of perfection a long time ago, and now I’m just accepting whatever comes. That helps with the stress. Some of them are doing pretty well and others are struggling, because they miss so much class. I’m trying not to let it bother me and I’m getting better each time. I hope we’ll actually have some piano players capable of accompanying simple church hymns by the time we’re finished. I don’t think there’ll be 11 of them, but maybe 3 or 4 who really keep it up and practice regularly. I’ll feel good about that.

I think I mentioned in our last blog that we were giving up the English classes, because the Mission President wanted us to move on to other wards now, and it would make it too hard to get back for the two classes each week. We’re actually quite relieved to be finished with them, even though we did make some good friends among the kids in those three wards. Now, here I am trapped into a piano class, but only for one afternoon per week, and because all of the kids speak English, it’s something I can do to contribute something to the wards without knowing Samoan very well.

One day while we were in Apia, we had some extra time and decided to go visit the Aggie Grey hotel, where we had stayed 5 years ago. It is a beautiful place and is decorated with Samoan décor to the hilt.

The landscaping is like the garden of Eden with exotic flowers everywhere, some we’ve not seen before.
As you walk from the main building back to all the fales and the swimming pool, the whole path is covered with this beautiful carved ceiling and posts. It just goes on and on.
The main dining fale is huge, where they have continual buffets all day long and great entertainment in the evenings. We had great memories of our two-week stay there when we came for the Temple Dedication.
In the large dining fale the whole ceiling is intricately woven and painted with native Samoan carved wood, cords and art. All the support posts are hand carved. I can’t imagine the number of man hours it took to complete the whole thing. It was so fun to have a chance to stop back and see it again. Before we came to Samoa this trip, Kimmy gave us a copy of a book called “Aggie Grey of Samoa, the First Lady of the south Pacific.” She was the founder of the hotel and built it up from a tiny hamburger stand for the American soldiers during world war II, to the incredible luxury hotel that it is now. The history of her life closely parallels the history of Samoa before and during those turbulent war and post war years. I read it before we came, but had to read it again a couple of times after arriving and being more familiar with all the stories and places talked about in the book. The book has made the rounds of most of the Senior missionaries, who’ve enjoyed it as much as we have. Thanks again Kimmy, it was a perfect gift and has been well used.

JOHN - Our visits have taken us into two new villages along the coast, Moesavili and Sasa’ai. I actually lived for several months back in 1956 in Moesavili. None of the people there now were even alive or old enough to remember much of those days. The road was sand or rock, there was no elecrtricity, no toilet paper (they used coconut husks), no septic tanks--their outhouses were positioned along the beach out over the water and the fish took care of cleanup, practically no one wore any shorts or pants (all lavalavas) or t-shirts, and people bathed out in the open. Elephantitis was rampant, with many old folks having enlarged arms or legs. The Samoan houses were all thatched roof construction. The houses today are still the same open style, but the roofs are mostly galvanized tin. Houses used to be built using a thin rope material made from coconut husks. The old matais would sit and weave this rope (sennet, or afa) for hours on end. They all still sit cross legged on the floor much of the time. We have met some great people who have not been active in church for long periods of time. Every one we have visited has stated that they still have a strong testimony of the truthfulness of the gospel but for some reason they have not been able to keep coming to church. We have had some absolutely wonderful visits, with old chiefs, widows, young couples, and children. Much of the time we tell them how much we love the church and how we know that our families can be sealed in the temple for all time and eternity because of the great sealing power that was restored through the prophet Joseph Smith. We declare our faith in our living prophet. We met a family with three teenage girls who attend the church’s Vaiola school and who have been baptized into our church. Upon entering their home we found out that they speak very good English, and the father is a minister of the LMS church and teaches at their church college. We knew the parents were non-members when we went, so we tempered our remarks accordingly and kept our testimonies fairly generic. The father and mother sat rather stoically as we spoke and we felt they were a little uncomfortable with us there. When the father began to speak, he thanked us for coming, and went on to say, to our great surprise, that they were very interested in the Church. We were also made aware that he has been reading the church magazines that his daughters bring home from school. Each student at Vaiola has a subscription to the New Era and he’s read them and been so impressed with the messages contained in them that he has just about decided that he and his wife also want to be baptized and become members too. He went on to explain, however, that this was going to be a real challenge for him, being the village minister of another faith. He wants to leave that position without harming his family or causing too much trouble for the village, and he would probably lose his teaching job. We keep copies of the Liahona in our car and we left him several different issues, including one complete conference report from last year. We have taken other reading material to him at his request. This will be an interesting story as it unfolds. We are planning a family home evening with them this next Monday night, along with the sister missionaries who have been working with the girls. We’re really looking forward to it.

We have also had several people come back to church, and we have met them on our Sunday visits to those two wards. Just this morning we saw a young father and his two sons in church. We had a very emotional visit with him this past week after which he said he knew he needed to stop his smoking and drinking and get back to church. I related to him how my dad was having the same problems when I was very young – smoking, drinking, and not attending to church activities. I explained that my dad was a good, honest man who loved his children very much, and when I was 12 years old and ready to be made a deacon he realized it was time to set a good example for me. He came back to church and quit his smoking and drinking. I felt that this Samoan man also loved his boys very much and that, he too, probably realized that he needed to make the changes my dad made 62 years ago. With tears in his eyes he said he would come back to church. He did, and so this is a measure of the success that we are experiencing, and it is a wonderful thing to behold. I had a recurring dream a few years back that I would someday be back in Samoa, and that I would have an opportunity to teach the gospel in the home of a high chief. I have actually had that happen, and in fact it happens a few times each week.

KAREN - These two pictures were taken at one of our fale visits. The first one is of an old chief, who hasn’t been coming to church because of a bad leg. He and John had such a fun visit along with Malala, the ward mission leader. The other picture is of his daughter and her children. Notice the babies have no clothes on. That’s pretty typical except in town and at church. The children are so beautiful, but a little wary of these strange looking Palagis (whites) at first. When John invited the old chief to church and suggested we could pick him up if it was too hard for him to walk, he readily agreed. When we went to pick him up on Sunday, he had already left and walked to church on his own. He did allow us to take him back home again, however.

On that same morning we had made arrangements to pick up another family. We had visited them for the second time the week before and had such a moving visit. The mother, Paula, is a young widow of about three months. Her husband died playing in a rugby game, where I think he broke his neck. She has 6 children, ages 2,4,6,8,10 and 12, all boys, except for the darling baby girl. Her oldest son has gone on to the U.S. to live with her brother and go to school. She hasn’t been coming to church for obvious reasons—she’s pretty depressed and the kids are a handful. Also, the in-laws she lives with are not members and have their own opinions about her attending church. When we were there this past week, she was telling us about her worries of supporting her family. She’s asked for financial help from her own family who live in New Zealand and the U.S., but so far hasn’t had much help. Her in-laws provide her a little house and help with food, but she has no money for anything extra. She told us about trying to start up a baking business, where she would bake cakes, breads, muffins, banana bread, gingerbread, etc., in this really primitive, by our standards anyway, oven.


The oven itself is made with a 55-gallon barrel on it’s side, on top of a little rock wall that is open at the back to load the wood for the fire underneath the oven. The whole thing is then covered with about 3-4 inches of concrete. The shelf is added inside and the lid of the barrel is used as the oven door, with a piece of cardboard inside the door, for insulation, I guess, and a couple of sticks to prop it closed. When she told us that she made gingerbread, we were both surprised, saying that we’ve not seen any in Samoa yet. When we asked if we could buy some from her, she told us she was sorry but she had no money to buy ingredients to bake with. We asked if we could pay for it up front and gave her some money and made an appointment for a couple of days later to come and pick up the finished gingerbread. When we came back that afternoon two days later, the gingerbread was still in the oven, but almost finished. I asked her how she was able to control the temperature (she speaks some English), and she just said you either add wood to the fire, or take some out. Okay…..sounds like true precision to me. We watched her father-in-law test the gingerbread by plucking a tiny little stick off a nearby bush, about the size of a toothpick, and testing it the way we would. When the gingerbread muffins came out of the oven they looked really dark, as they should, and I wondered if the bottom closest to the fire would be burned. They were perfect. She spread a little butter on one for us and MMMM-good. It was wonderful. It’s just amazing to me that she can have that kind of control on the oven. She had already received a big order that morning from the local women’s committee for a large pan of Coconut buns and was really acting happy. The coconut buns are just like you would bake hot rolls in the oven, but the dough is put into a coconut milk pudding in the bottom of the pan and baked in the oven. We didn’t have any of hers, but we’ve tasted them before and they are yummy. When we went back to pick her up for church the following Sunday, she had all the kids ready and spruced up. I had baked some pumpkin bread the day before so we brought her a loaf, along with the recipe. She makes a lot of Banana bread, and this is something she hadn’t had before and hopefully she’ll be able to make some and sell it. The pumpkin is readily available and she could probably grow it herself, like we have.

Their version of pumpkins here are more green than ours, but the taste is the same. You can’t believe the size of the pumpkin plants and how they spread. This is the second one from our garden in the picture and there are several more in varying degrees of ripening. We eat it quite often just like squash but John has also made a few pumpkin pies--MMMMMM again.
This is a picture of Paula, the young widow, with her kids in front of the cookhouse. She is a beautiful, happy-faced woman, in spite of her circumstances. She really seemed to have a nice time at Church and everyone warmly welcomed her. We made arrangements to pick her up again this next Sunday. I hope she enjoys it enough to keep going after we move on and she has to walk about a mile with her kids. She asked us while we were there last week what she had to do to get ready to go to the temple. The Ward mission leader just told her she’d need to attend church, visit with the bishop, and would also be expected to pay tithing, which could be hard, but she’d be blessed for it. We have great hopes of being there if and when she is able to go.

These next pictures were taken at the home of Miriama and her family. I’m pretty sure we’ve talked about her before. Her husband. who was blind in one eye, went to the doctor for treatment of his other eye, and somehow or other lost the sight in that eye as well. He was also deaf, and just decided he didn’t want to live with all that, so he took a pair of scissors and stabbed himself in the temple, with obvious results. She is a handsome woman of about 55 or so. She’s had a hard life. Not only has she lost her husband, but her only daughter died a few years ago from breast cancer, and Miriama is raising her daughter’s four children, plus another darling little boy, Pelese, who belongs to one of her other sons, Letoa. He’s the object of a pretty heavy custody battle between the son and ex-wife, but so far still stays with the family. She really has her hands full, but always has a smile on her face and a happy disposition. She’s just barely active in the Church, but always sends the kids. We had a family home evening on this particular night, because her other son, Ula from American Samoa, was visiting and we had met and befriended him when we first came.

Another family we’ve visited off and on is the Auano family. The mother has been coming to church with the children, but her husband is very resistant. He’d had his feelings hurt years ago and has stayed away ever since. He has what appears to be a paralysis on one side of his face and is probably embarrassed about it. He’s a kind and hard-working man who obviously loves his family and has said that he knows he should be going to church with them. It’s not happened yet, but we keep hoping. We had a fun family home evening with them where we played games and showed them a DVD on our laptop of the Savior’s life, death and resurrection. It’s a beautifully done film and can be played with the Samoan language. They all seemed very touched by it.


The first two pictures are of some games we were playing and the third one is of the family, including an aunt and several cousins from next door, watching the DVD. The mother is on the left in the paisley blouse, the father in the far back (as usual), with the aunt in front of him.
these pictures were taken at a primary program in the ward we live in, McKay Ward. As you can see, it took place on the parking lot/basketball court and all the kids did some sort of native Samoan dance.





The final two pictures were taken of a primary teacher off to the side who just couldn’t sit still when the music was playing for the kids. She put on a wonderful show, and seemed to ham it up more when she realized I was taking her picture. These folks are so spontaneous and full of fun. Many of these children were in our English class and have found a special place in our hearts. We love being associated with them and their parents, and they welcome us with open arms like family. The refer to us as their spiritual parents, and we love them as if we were.

Since writing the earlier part of this blog segment, we did make another trip up to Vaisala last weekend and had a joyful and lazy time. It was quite rainy both days and nicely cool. Poor John couldn’t keep warm after snorkeling for awhile. I had just stayed on the beach, under a fale because of the rain and spread out my blanket and pillow and read and napped. It was just luxurious. When John came back in from snorkeling, he was too cold to go back in with me, so we just got dressed and went for a long walk in the rain, with an umbrella for each of us. We met some delightful villagers as we walked and stopped to watch some children jumping rope. I asked if I could try, acting at first as if I didn’t know what I was doing and then just took off with some of my old time jump-roping. It was such fun and they were really surprised to see this old woman jumping rope like she thought she knew what she was doing. I tried to show them how to do that cross-over thing you can do with the rope that I was so good at as a kid, but all I did was about fall on my face, so I quit trying before I embarrassed myself and John any more.

We got these pictures of the kids, but gratefully John didn’t think about taking one of me until later and I was just fine with that.
We saw these kids rolling in the sand on the beach later, and tried to catch them before they ran back into the water. They were all cleaned off, but when I asked if they’d roll again so I could take their picture, they gladly granted my request.

After a lovely dinner on the dining balcony, we went to bed early and slept in the next morning. We went for a leisurely breakfast about 9:30 and then went back out and snorkeled for another couple of hours, until poor John, who had worn two layers of t-shirts this time, just got too cold to enjoy himself. I must really get some fat on that guy. Ordinarily, it would have been much warmer, but the sun did not come out at all that day, and it sprinkled rain off and on while we were snorkeling. All in all, however, it was a very relaxing break from our very hectic schedule during the week.

Today we spent another busy day with visits to about 6 families up in Sasa’ai, with our umbrellas again. The Ward Mission leader up there is just a super young married guy and speaks good English. He really knows his ward people and just makes them and us all feel so comfortable. At our last stop, we came to a fale with a whole bunch of people in the yard and the little work fales. They were all members of the local ward performing a service project for a family whose thatched roof needed mending. The men had cut down several of these very large bushes and had gathered up hundreds of very long, thin leaves, probably 2” x 50” long and were piling them up in the fales for the women to weave them into thatched mats for the roof. They take about 3 leaves, fold them in half over a rigid stick about 3 feet long and then stitch them in place, overlapping each set of leaves, with twine and a strange looking needle, about 1/2” wide, 1/8” thick and almost 6 inches long, made out of some different brightly colored plastic material. When we asked to see the needle up close, they informed us it was made from a toothbrush handle with the brush cut off and then sharpened. It had a hole in the flat end for the heavy twine and they could really handle it well. I never cease to be amazed at their resourcefulness. Here was a whole group of people, men and women, making the thatch for two Samoan fales and spending practically nothing but time and elbow grease. I was so disappointed that I didn’t have my camera with me, but after we got back to the car, I grabbed it and we went back to take pictures.



Most of the men had gone by then, but the ladies were still there stitching the mats together. Notice how the women are sitting Fa’aSamoa (crosslegged). They’ve probably been sitting like that for hours on the hard wood floor in one fale, and on rocks in the other fale. A couple had woven sleeping mats on the rocks and others were sitting right on the rocks. We’ve sat in plenty of fales just like that, but they always put a woven mat down for us to sit on. (Like all Samoans, they love having their pictures taken. The great thing about digital cameras is that we can show them the pictures right on the spot. They love that.)

Those women had a huge pile of thatched mats all finished and stacked to dry out before the men would come back later to “reshingle” the fales.

I am determined to quit writing now and get the pictures in place, before we have another busy day and a new adventure to add. I see I’m already over 12 pages long and it will be more once the pictures are added, so that’s more than enough for now.

Thanks for joining us on our Samoan odyssey. We realized that we’ve been here 8 months already, a little more than a third of our mission. We’ve had so many unusual and moving experiences and expect there’ll be many more. I think I mentioned before that when President Nelson set us apart for our mission, he told us after that he felt this was not going to be an ordinary mission. So far, he’s right on, and I’m sure we’ll see more of the same. We love it, and it’s going by too fast.

I think I said something about quitting a couple of paragraphs ago. Sorry……All our love to everyone. We really do miss you all and truly do wish you were here.

From Elder and Sister Krogh, John and Karen, Mom and Dad, Grandpa and Grandma